The first picture is of; Jane Flegal - PCV Lankaran 2007-2009, Ruhanges – Jane’s counterpart, Linda, Whitney Bey – PCV Jallibad 2007-2009, and in the background is Ruhanges’ husband. A part of the Pre-Service Training is to visit a Peace Corps Volunteer at their site and observe what being a PCV is like in Azerbaijan. Our visit was to Lankaran and our host was Jane Flegal. Whitney Bey came to Lankaran to help enhance our time in Lankaran. Jane and Whitney were patient, kind, and honest in answering all our questions and responding to our anxieties.
On August 2 while Jane and Whitney were on their way to Baku for their medical visit before their close of service, we were privileged to host them for an evening. We wanted to have more time with them before they return to the United States, and we still had more questions about the PCV experience. I want all our friends and family to know how much we admire and appreciate these 2 soon to be RPCV. It is very difficult to be a single female PCV. Jane and Whitney represented the United States, the Peace Corps with honor and dedication, and we should all be proud of their service.
The second picture is of Jane and Linda by the Caspian. The third is of Jane’s classroom in Lankaran. As you can see it is in poor condition even for Azerbaijan standards. When we visited with Jane’s counterpart, I asked, “Why do you think Jane came to Azerbaijan?” Ruhanges responded with affection that Jane came to share teaching techniques, but even more of herself, and that Ruhanges will be a better teacher for Jane’s coming.
On August 16 we also said goodbye and thank you to Jenni Onslow – Salyan, and Kathleen Keating – Salyan village. Linda and I made our first venture in traveling by ourselves by going to Salyan. Jenni hosted us for lunch. Jenni was in the Youth Development program and began swimming classes for women. Now swimming lessons for women may not be unusual in the USA – here in Azerbaijan this was a cultural achievement and demonstrated the confidence and trust the women placed in Jenni.
Kathleen was an English teacher in a village outside Salyan. For a woman to serve in a village takes endurance, strength, and the highest commitment.
As we said goodbye and thank you to these AZ5 Volunteers, Jenni said “We (AZ5) have fewer days than you have months left to live in Azerbaijan. It is amazing how one counts down and marks certain milestone dates. The big countdown begins when a volunteer has less than a year. Then every time a volunteer celebrates an event, they say something like, “that’s the last Christmas I’ll spend in Azerbaijan”.
For Linda and I we are marking our service with the upcoming dates: September 23 – having lived in Azerbaijan 1 year, November 2 – half-way through our time in Azerbaijan, December 11 – only 1 more year to go.
Now, for the younger readers of this blog, there was an old TV show entitled That Was The Week That Was (TW3). The rest of this blog is TW3.
People’s attitude about Monday’s is universal. When I jog on Monday mornings, everyone moves more slowly and with some trepidation for the upcoming week. But, for us the week was most unusual.
On Tuesday we attended a “Toy” which is a wedding. The picture above is of the Groom, Bride, and fellow workers at the Library. The woman on the far right (tallest) is named Dilara. On Tuesday morning she came to me and had a small gold cross that she wanted to give to Linda. Linda wore it to the wedding. What makes the cross so special was that Dilara’s mother had brought it from Moscow 20 years ago. Now, Dilara wanted to present it to Linda.
Note the last picture – we got to dance at the wedding – European style! We still got it.
On Wednesday at the conclusion of my final conversation club, a new participant asked for some time alone. His name is Elnur and he is a 5th year medical student in Baku. His English is excellent. His brother had been to the library and had seen the conversation clubs. Elnur then asked if I was a Christian. I said, “Yes”, and he replied immediately, “So am I”. His aunt was the first member of the family to become Christian while living in Russia (this during the Soviet Union). The aunt was influential in Elnur’s mother and father becoming Christian, and his entire family is now active in their faith. Elnur attends a Baptist church in Baku (1 of 4) in the Ganjlik area; a familiar area to Linda and I. The services are from 1 until 3 on Sunday afternoons. Now, Linda and I have a place and people to share in worship.
When I came home, I told Linda my day was better than hers. I told her about Elnur and his family. As tears filled Linda’s eyes we were thankful.
On Thursday evening we hosted an adult conversation club with 8 in attendance. At about 8:45 p.m. we met with Yergona and her family. Yergona is a student at Baku State University who lives in Saray (the village where we lived during training). Linda and Yergona tutored each other in English and Azerbaijani. Yergona was in Shirvan to celebrate the fourth birthday of her nephew and the family wanted us to join them. Yes, the party did not begin until 9:00 or so.
I sat with men in one portion of the courtyard, and Linda with the women in another area. There were 2 teenage boys, the father, father’s brother, the grandfather, and I. Linda had Yergona to help her with translation while I was using all the Azerbaijani, sign language, pantomimes, and primal grunts that I knew to communicate.
During the party we danced a little swing to a popular Azerbaijani song, and had a wonderful evening.
What I most want to share is that during the evening, we shared how we wanted to be their friends. The grandfather told me that he served in the Soviet army in Cuba, and he had seen Castro. I remember the missile crisis, the cold war, and now I was sitting with a former Soviet soldier, sharing food, drink. The most important things to him now are his 8 grandchildren. Family and friends make life worthwhile.
This week could only happen in the Peace Corps experience.
Thank you for your love and support.
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