Housing Policy and Reality

First the pictures, there is a picture of the River Kur which is a major river in Azerbaijan, our source of drinking water and recreation. Linda and I take the bus down to the river and can be there in about 20 minutes after getting on the bus. On a bright sunny day with the temperature in the 60’s we ventured to the park with our host children, Fidan and Nijat. I saw the little girl with the knitted poncho and could not resist the beautiful picture as she prepared to go down the slide. With any bright and beautiful day, everyone does the laundry. Note that the temperature was in the 60’s and I thought shorts would be appropriate, but there were stocking hats and heavy coats. Azerbaijan people think that being cold (or comfortable for me) causes illness.
For the jest of this posting Linda and I are anxiously looking forward to the time when we can move into our own housing, April 10. We thought we would explain the Azerbaijan Peace Corps reasoning for their housing us with families for almost 7 months, and then share our experience so far.
The Azerbaijan Peace Corps is responsible for the lives of over 100 people. During our 10-week training period we lived with a host family. The intent is that the family will help us learn Azerbaijani and that must be the primary language spoken in the host home. The family is also to introduce us to family, friends, and the community. The hosts are to help us adjust and learn the culture. One aspect of security is to be as integrated as possible into the community.
There are certain requirements for hosting. There must be a private room with a lock, and the Trainee/Volunteer must have all keys. There must be a heater, and a toilet within 10 meters of the house. There must be at least 5 hours of electricity per day. The host family must have at least one employed person.
The result is that there can be a great disparity in the housing. One family may consist of a working widow and children where there is little money and housing the Trainee/Volunteer is a major source of income. Another family may have an automobile, indoor toilets, hot water and great comfort. The food varies within the families also.
In our training situation in Saray, the housing was very difficult with strained family relations towards the end of our stay. Linda and I were quite concerned after Linda witnessed the husband throw a chair at his wife, and we spent time with her, but she was not as concerned as we were. There were problems with the gas supply and the water had to be heated by wood. The food was inadequate and the family could not budget the money given them biweekly, so we went to paying them weekly. When we made a biweekly payment, there were new clothes, appliances, but at the end of the two weeks there may be nothing to eat. Our home was dirty and under construction, and very cold. Their cell phones rarely had credit. We notified the PC of the situation and the food improved after we went to a weekly payment.
Now, in Shirvan our family there is food, but unbalanced. The house is actually too warm and uncomfortable at times. The furnishings are very nice and we have Internet access, and hot water when we need it.
The failure in both homes is that they both wanted to learn English more than help us with our Azerbaijan. Neither family has introduced us to neighbors, and only a few family members. All our social and community contacts came as a result of our initiative. We are very fortunate in that the families are not over protective with us as they are with the younger volunteers.
Neither family had a schedule. In Shirvan the family may all be awake and active at midnight, in bed at 11:00 with one or more members at the computer and/or watching TV until 3-4 in the morning. Then the mother rises at 6:00 and gets on the computer usually chatting or listening to music until she and the children leave for school at 7:45. The children and adults always appear tired, and sometimes nap at any and all hours. The father works 12 hour rotating shifts, so his schedule is even less defined than the rest of the family. But, I tutor him in English 3 or 4 nights a week.
As you can imagine after having our own household for over 37 years, we want control of our diet, schedules, and volume of noise. The parents allow privacy, but the children are children and very curious. We will also have more control over cleanliness. Spills and dishes are not cleaned in a timely fashion. Hot water is normally not used to wash dishes, and the dishes sit out overnight. Food is often left out over night, and then served again. We feel God has watched over us in that we have not had any issues with food poisoning.
The Peace Corps works diligently and with great effort to find host families. We pay them about 125 dollars a month per person for housing and three meals a day. They advertise for interested families, and responses and resources vary so much in each community. I think the PC does an extraordinary job, but there are always difficulties. I cannot imagine opening my home to perfect strangers for 4 months. These families who host may have many motives, but certainly express a sense of hospitality and generosity.
It is up to us to find and negotiate our housing after April 10. We are using all our contacts and feel assured we will find something. It may not be much, but it will be ours. The Azerbaijan PC calculates the average rent per person is about 100 dollars a month. Then another 100 is given for food, utilities, travel, clothing, and all other expenses. Budgeting becomes a very important skill especially for the single volunteer, and the younger volunteers who do not have the same quality of support systems that we do.
All in all, piece of cake! Thank you all for your love and support. We are hopefully having an impact on lives. Every day is full of joys, excitement, tedium, and frustrations. I hope it doesn’t sound like we complain too much. We knew it would have ups and downs and difficulties when we committed to service. As one host said to me "This is not America, it is Azerbaijan". Quite an adventure so far – can’t wait till we have our own place to see what happens.

Valentine's Day - Fresh Meat - This and That

Təzə Əti – Qoyun Məl, The sign reads fresh meat – Lamb and beef. On the way home from work you see the fresh meat tied and awaiting his fate. On the way to work the next morning is təzə əti. The shop is about fifty yards from our front gate.
One Saturday Linda and I ventured out on a couple of the buses just to see where they went. Bus number 3 took us to the edge of Shirvan. Linda and I walked about .25 of a mile and took pictures. The man with Linda lived there. I introduced ourselves and we talked about the wetlands and birds, in Azerbaijani! He is obviously very poor, but very kind. His 2 children were playing nearby.
The street picture is just up the road from where we photographed the man. Double click and see the man coming up the road. Linda feels it is a very good picture to illustrate that not all of Shirvan is clean and parks.
For Valentine’s Day Linda and I made each other cards, then for lunch went to a Turkish family café. A family café allows women on one side of the café. Linda had a donər which is mutton on a wonderful bread with mayonaise, cucumber, tomatoes, and a secret ingredient which Linda says is terrific. It is the closest thing to a hamburger we have. I had the spaghetti with ketchup or mayonaise whichever I choose. We divided a cola, and the bill was $6.00.
The woman at the table has known other volunteers and has attending a women’s business conference that was supported by PC staff. For a woman in Azerbaijan she is a liberated business woman. If her English was better or our Azerbaijani better, we would be good friends.
There is a young man named Abraham, but goes by the shorter name of Ibo who is one of two young men that have adopted me as their project of protection. They walk me around the city, introduce me to people, and translate in my conversation clubs when needed. I have asked many questions about Islam, and Ibo is quick to answer if he knows.
On a Saturday, I had "free time" so Ibo escorts me to his mosque for Namas which is the prayer time. I was given a small pillow upon which to sit on the floor. Sixteen men eventually made their way to the 1:00 p.m. prayer time. The men are led in prayer and they repeat the same prayer to themselves 5 times. They begin by standing, then by bending at the waist, then kneeling and bowing. The entire process of waiting to begin, then the Namas lasted about an hour. It was like a gathering for a Wednesday evening prayer service.
I felt very uncomfortable at first because they all know I am a Christian. I am honest and forthright with my faith. Everyone there was very cordial to me, and invited me back. I think they hope that I will be converted.
The inside of the mosque was very plain. There was a carpet and it was well lit, and no chairs or benches. Ibo said that people pay for the heaters, electric, lights, and so forth, but no one knows who it is. The giver never reveals what he has given.
There was literature at both ends of the mosque and at one end there was a curtain which can be drawn. During Ramadan women are allowed on one side of the curtain. There was a pulpit like area, but while I was there no homily or instruction was given, only the reciting of prayers.
The men were dressed in their street clothes and only one man covered his head. The ages were primarily from 30 to 50 with two men who could have been 60. Ibo is 23 and was the youngest man there. No shoes are worn inside the mosque.
The following is one of Linda’s recent experiences.
The mother of one of the English teachers at school died last week. We have been to this teacher’s home for dinner. Another English teacher invited me to go with her to the mother’s home for the mourning. We were welcomed and took off our shoes at the door. We then went into a large living room filled with women. We knelt down and kissed the mourning teacher. She had on black clothes, her hair was pulled back and covered with a headscarf and she wore no makeup.
All the furniture was gone and the women sat on pillows on the floor and covered their feet and legs with sheets. We then found a place to sit. One lady was speaking in Azeri and I could not understand all she said. She was talking about the dead woman. There was no body or pictures of the dead mother.
After the woman stopped speaking the mourning teacher started a chant-like recitation. The mourning teacher had a tray sitting in front of her. It had a glass of water, a dish of candy and some manats (dollars) lying on the tray. I did not see people put money on the tray for her but this is what is done.
We sat with our hands open and palms up (prayer position). Several times during the chanted prayer we moved our hands over our faces from forehead down to chin. My teacher friend had told me how we would sit, hold our hands and move our hands down our face. She had previously explained that a woman would be in charge of the mourning. All the women but two young girls had their heads covered.
After the prayers were finished, we arose, again kissed the mourning teacher and left the room. The family showed us down to another room where pillows were arranged down two opposite walls. In the center of the room on tablecloths on the floor was much food – sliced tomatoes, cucumbers, candy, hava (sugar, grounded nuts, spices, butter) fruit, rice, bread and jams. We were served tea and I ate some finger foods. We then arose, thanked the family, put on our shoes and left.
There were men standing outside in the courtyard talking quietly but none of them had come inside. This receiving of mourning guests goes on for 7 days. So, a death in the family takes effort (to feed people) and is labor intensive (to receive guests, prepare food, serve, clean). Relatives come in to help.
The body is buried the day after death. It is wrapped in cloth and buried (no caskets, vaults or embalming). A grave is marked by a headstone (some of these are very expensive). Families usually are buried together in family plots – sometimes enclosed by a fence.
Denney had a woman at his work whose nephew died. She missed a week of work just as this teacher did. But that is what is done in Azerbaijan, and employers and friends know this is the custom.

January 20, 1990 is a day of great importance in Azerbaijan. The events of that day are remembered each year just as September 11, 2001 are recalled in the United States each. In Azerbaijan Iyirmi Yanvar are special words. The people of Azerbaijan were expressing the desire to be a republic and break away from the Soviet Union. To make an example of Azerbaijan, the Soviets sent military to Baku the capital and warned everyone to stay off the streets. Many people were going about their daily tasks when the tanks began firing and rolling over people in the streets. 163 men, women, and children were killed. These 163 are memorialized in a park, Martyrs Lane, in Baku. Their images are engraved on head stones in the midst of a park. The first two images along the lane are of a couple just 23 years old, recently married. He was killed. She was so devistated by his death, she later killed herself on June 30, 1990, and thus creating "Lovers Day" on June 30. Images of men in the early 30’s, women in their 20’s, and children are haunting visions of the cost of freedom. Some of the head stones have no image because the bodies were so mutilated that identification was impossible. For more information Google, "January 20 Azerbaijan"
Each year, it is a solemn day, not a holiday, but a day of mourning. No one goes to work, and there are memorial events throughout the country. People began arriving at the Memorial pictured above before 10:00 a.m. Linda attended the ceremonies with her fellow school staff. Students from her school gave dramatic readings during the program, and she was on the front row. I attended by myself and was among the crowd of 2,000. Linda arrived at 10:00 a.m. and I at 11:00. The program began around 11:30 with speeches from various dignitaries. Everyone in the crowd was standing. One of the dignitaries passed out from standing so long. The program itself lasted about an hour followed by the placing of flowers at the memorial. First, groups presented the large wreaths of red carnations, then a procession of individuals with red carnations. Linda and I each laid 2 carnations at the memorial.
Even though we could not understand much of what was said. The emotions displayed and especially the tears that flowed during the prayer moved us. We feel very much a part of the country and its history during times like this.
On a brighter note, there is the picture of the local college. Colleges in Azerbaijan would be like community colleges and technical schools in the United States. The best students attend universities. But, if a student demonstrates the ability at a college they may go on to a university. The large building behind the sign is the college.
Linda and I have both attended sessions of English courses to dialog with the students and speak about the United States. The method of teaching is as in the public schools patterned after the old Soviet method of recitation. Consequently, many of the English majors cannot actually speak or converse in English.
The students are a delight of enthusiasm to us. Many attend my conversation clubs at the Central Library. I was invited to a birthday celebration in the Buffet, closest thing to the student union they have. There was cake and tea served. There were 2 people celebrating their 21st and 19th birthday anniversary.
There are no dormitories. The students who are not from Shirvan must find their own housing. So, like in the US, many of the cheaper apartments are shared by the students. We thought you would enjoy their bright young faces.
While in Saray during training, Linda tutored a university student, Yugona, in English and Yogona tutored Linda in Azerbaijani. Yugona has always expressed a great affection for Linda. Yugona’s sister-in-law, Elvira, lives in Shirvan. While visiting in Shirvan Yugona and her family invited us to her relatives home for a meal. It was a lot of wonderful food, good conversation (yes, I was able to speak a little Azerbaijani, enough to talk about the Peace Corps and common matters), and the highlight of playing backgammon with Yugona’s father.
The picture is of Yugona’s father, his grandson and Linda. It is just a wonderful picture. The world over everyone loves the children, grandchildren even more, and people want to be friends.

Taxis, Pictures, and a new friend

Last week Linda and I made a day trip to Salyan and the bus you see was our bus. I must warn you that the inside is not near as nice as the outside. The trip was for 40 miles and took 1.5 hours. There were many stops as people waited in the villages to go to Salyan or get off at one of the many villages along the way. The return trip was in the same bus and took 1.1 hours with fewer people wanting to stop.
The cows eating the trash off the street is a random shot while walking to work this morning. As we walked I took a picture of one of the apartment buildings. Look closely at the wider picture and right in the middle is a woman, hanging her head out the window passing the time watching people walk by and life in the street. Note the utility pole with the satellite dish in the background in the lower left hand corner of the picture. That is the same utility pole with another woman watching the world go by. Women who are housewives watch TV or hang out the window for hours on end each day.
The last picture is of a marstruka; one of the small buses that holds 15 – 20 people. Linda and I are planning to ride a couple around the city just to see where they go.
In the last posting I mentioned taxis. The PC discourages using taxis and asks us to opt for a cheaper means of transportation. To go anywhere within our city of Shirvan is $1. If the ride is one block, one mile, or several miles within the city - $1. We can take a taxi to the next town about 10 miles away for $1 each. We can take a taxi to Baku for $5 each, but must share the cab with 2 others or pay $20 for the entire taxi. The Marstruka is $3 a piece to Baku. The taxi takes 1.25 hours and the bus 1.45.
The method of driving a taxi is go as fast as you can, pass everyone you can, and slow down as fast as you can for bad places in the roads which are numerous. If a driver needs 30 feet to pass and there is only 20 feet clearance with a vehicle speeding towards you, go for it.
The noises most often heard while walking down the street or riding in a bus or taxi is the grinding of gears and the squeaking of metal on metal as brakes are applied. I initially thought that a good mechanic could make a fortune with a brake and clutch repair shop, but then I realized he would go broke because no one seems to fix the clutch or brakes.
On a more serious note I would like to introduce you to a young man I met this week. Men have an activity called going for a walk. A man meets a friend or two or three and they walk around town together. Just walking and talking. Finally, after a while they stop at a Chaihana (Tea House).
I was invited to walk with two young men who have become my friends, and a mutual acquaintance whom I will call Sam. Sam is a fourth year student at the University in Baku majoring in Chemistry and hopes to be a chemical engineer, and he speaks English fluently.
Sam is obviously intelligent and very likeable. He told me about his family and his studies. He is quite active at his university. Over tea he shared that he had been arrested 3 times for political demonstrations. When Russia invaded Georgia, he organized a group and made signs supporting Georgia and asked for donations for medical supplies. They raised over 70 dollars. One young man stopped and said he was from Oscetia, but he supported his country of Georgia and gave them $10. They tried to protest in front of the Russian embassy and that is when they were arrested, but do not worry, the police were very kind to them.
After the demonstrations and being released Sam was walking alone down the street wearing a tee shirt with "Russia Must Go Support Georgia" printed across the front. Three rather large muscular men would not allow him to pass and made a comment Sam did not understand. Then one man asked him why he was wearing the shirt was he from Georgia? Sam answered he was from Azerbaijan, but supported the rights of Georgia. The man stepped towards him, hugged Sam and said he was a Georgian.
Corruption is prevalent at all levels of education and government. A student is sometimes asked to give money if they want a good grade. When Sam takes an exam, he sets his cell phone on top of a card provided by an anti-corruption group funded in part by USAID. The card is a list of phone numbers to report educational corruption. Sam earns his grades, he does not purchase them.
Democracy will be successful in Azerbaijan because of a generation like Sam. It is a privilege to speak with him and now call him my friend.