We Received a Little Snow

I am late in posting the blog this week. As you can see above we had a little snow on Tuesday and Wednesday. Nothing like all of you have had in the United States. All of these pictures was take by Rovshan. He is one of the most talented and likable Azeri young men I have met. He always seeks interesting subjects, and has a good eye for angles. The first three are beautiful shots around Shirvan while the ATV shows interesting men, especially the guy smoking, and the final is universal with children and snow.

One day this week we did not have electric power at the library due to repairs in the neighborhood. It was quite cold in the library, but my counterpart took the opportunity to request some electrical repair. We have an old extension cord that the plug had broken. I suggested I buy a new one, but she insisted that the repairman could fix. Sure enough the electrician came soon and replaced a wall socket and the plug on the extension cord. He carried his tools in a plastic sack.

Tools are precious here in Azerbaijan and many workers cannot afford electrical power tools. I had tried once last year to take a picture of the welding apparatus that was being used to make repairs. A big battery with wires attached and the craftsman not wearing any type of safety equipment. Often ladders are not available. I came across a man putting up a sign on a building. He was standing on a chair that was standing on a table and he was looking for some kind of stool to go even higher.

I have witnessed workers on apartment building ledges with no safety equipment whatsoever. I know in the United States we get burdened down with safety and working condition regulations, but I assure you I will never complain about them again.

The normal procedure for buying goods in the markets are to stand in front of counters, tell the clerk what you would like item by item, then the total is added up on a small calculator (usually two or three times). The clerk then shows the total on the calculator to the customer who pays. Items are placed in plastic sacks and the matter is closed.

We have a new market in Shirvan. It has 4 grocery carts and 4 hand held baskets. Items are placed on the shelves where everyone can examine the products and the prices are clearly marked below. We get to wheel the cart around and chose what we want, then check out at a small stand with a bar code reader and computer. Our items are scanned and the subtotal is clearly shown. All we could say is WOW!

I have begun a new program at the library on Saturdays. I use the library's projector, our computer and speakers to episodes of Monk. I show 2 episodes with the English sub-titles. The participants can hear the English and see the words. The English is spoken so fast, that people struggle at times to understand, so the use of the sub-titles helps immensely. There have been as many as 12 and as few as 6. Everyone loves the character of Adrian Monk. I know they are understanding most of everything when the participants laugh at the right moments. Their reactions are appropriate, and I know they are having a good exposure to the language.

There is a question and answer period following each episode to discuss slang, phrases unknown, and cultural differences.

Next week is our Mid-Service Conference. We will be in training sessions on Wednesday and Thursday, and travel on Tuesday and Friday to and from the Baku/Sumqayit area. We get to stay in a nice hotel with nice hot showers! Everyone will be in a good mood.

My thanks to Barry Bohlman who sent us an external hard drive. I have already backed up our computer and loaded some entertainment packages. We appreciate so much every one's love, friendship and support. We just can't say it enough - THANK YOU.

Linda Visits a Kindergarten (pre-school)

PICTURES: Hopefully many of you will recognize my mother, decked out in her purple outfit. She is now 88 and has been a resident at her nursing home now for one year. Of course, adjustment had been difficult at first, but Katherine reports she is happy and doing well. Katherine is so good to go and see her every day and the staff says Katherine spoils her. Kim and John also support mother in many ways. They each take mother on outings. The second photo is of my sister Katherine and her husband Larry. They celebrated their 50th wedding anniversary while we were in Azerbaijan. Being separated from family and missing significant events is at times difficult, but we hope to make up for it in the future. We look towards celebrating mother’s 90th on June 19, 2011.
Linda is working with 2 junior high teachers in Harrisonville in a pen-pal project. Linda has 11 participants, 6 boys, 5 girls. These two are handsome representatives. This week Linda has mailed their letters and pictures to the teachers in Harrisonville. Last year Linda worked with about a dozen college students in a pen-pal project with students in Archie, Missouri.

Everything is fine in Azerbaijan, and in fact sometimes I wonder about what to write because everything seems so normal and routine now. The marketing, water preparation, and repairs all seem quite boring. However, two weeks ago while we were in Baku for a dentist appointment, we had guests the night before and I had been text messaging them on my phone while we were on a bus. When we transferred busses I put the phone in the outside pocket of my jacket, something I rarely do. The bus was crowded, and you probably already guessed, my cell phone was stolen. It is a bit inconvenient while I wait to see if the police find the phone through the IMEI code. The Peace Corps can contact me through Linda’s phone, but Linda and I are limited in contacting each other.

I have begun a new program at the Library. I show 2 episodes of Monk using a projector focused on a white board each Saturday at 11:00. We add the English subtitles. The university students and graduates follow along, and have come to love the character of Monk. We all forget how fast Americans speak and our extensive use of slang.

This week Linda and I visited a private pre-school in Shirvan. The couple that run the pre-school had been active in local government and have now purchased the facilities of a once government run pre-school-kindergarten. The couple were a host family for an RPCV, Karen Wrightsman, and are quite familiar with Peace Corps.

Linda returned on Friday to observe and the following are her observations:

The kindergarten is privately operated. The public school system in Azerbaijan does not provide kindergarten; so parents must pay for private kindergarten services. The kindergarten I observed is housed in an old Soviet building that the owners have repaired. Kindergarten opens at 6:00 in the morning and closes at 6:00 at night. The children are served breakfast and lunch. The 4-5 year old class had 14 students that will all be going to first form (first grade) next year. Their teacher has a degree from college (college is a two year program in AZ). She had an assistant that does not have a degree. The children said poems, counted to 20, named pictures of domestic animals, and vegetables – all in English. Their pronouncing of English words could be improved, but they were close. Each room has a large room with child-size tables, a TV, teacher’s desk and a cabinet with supplies. Adjoining the room is a bathroom and a sleep room. The facilities were very clean and modern. Each child has a bed and takes an afternoon nap. Academics are done in the morning and also after naptime.
The other classroom I observed had 13 students, ages 5-6 who will be going to first form next year. They have the same schedule, room, supplies and curriculum as the previous room. These students also recited a few poems and could introduce themselves.
The school has a large room for assemblies and a kitchen for food prep.
There are rooms for children from 9 months to age 6 years.
A person for America that saw this kindergarten would think that the kindergarten programs in Azerbaijan are wonderful. However, only some larger towns have kindergartens and this one is one of the best in the area. The cost is 60 manat per month per child. The original cost per month was 20 manat. However, now because the facility is so much better, the cost has gone up to 60 manat per month. They added cost is put back into the kindergarten so that constantly improvements are being made. A teacher is usually paid 150 – 250 manat per month. So many teachers and other people would not be able to afford this wonderful kindergarten. All these children were very nicely dressed. I saw no child that appeared to have a handicap. Three-fourths of the students were boys. (Most Azerbaijanis still feel that education of males is most important). Clearly, kindergarten is available, but only to those families that can afford it or will strictly budget their resources for early education. These students do get a wonderful start in English education.
They requested DVDs so their children could hear spoken English. They have one (Children Little) that they have played until it is worn out.

We are happy to hear that the weather has moderated, and know you are always in our thoughts and prayers.

Someone runs with me

The pictures are first, the family to whom we have given our Christmas tree. The second picture is of the memorial to the national tragedy which took place on January 20, 1990. This Wednesday we will be laying flowers at this memorial to remember the 133 people that the Soviet Army brutally murdered just before the fall of the Soviet Union. The final picture is explained better below, her name is Neylah.

We are reading that the weather is moderating a bit in the Midwest. The weather here has been unusually mild. This week there was one day that it must have been 50 degrees and sunny. The citizens of Shirvan are a bit concerned that they will not see a snow this year. My counterpart said the snow was good because it killed the bacteria. As I recall my biology class, I don’t think so. But, I listened and did not mention the importance of the snow as a source of nitrogen for the soil.

The Azerbaijan Peace Corps Volunteers have a quarterly newsletter entitled the AZLander. The newsletter includes antidotes, advice, and adventures of the Volunteers. I am working on submitting an article on a mature (read old) volunteer running in Shirvan. What sparked this interest in writing was an unusual experience this week.
I have written before that I continue my jogging here in Azerbaijan. I have run (using a very loose definition of the word) on a regular basis for about 40 years. I told Linda, that I think I have finally run around the world at least in accumulated mileage.
In Shirvan the running has been a valuable asset. People are amazed that a man as old as I exercise regularly in public. Everyone knows it is good for the health, but I still get asked the occasional why? Last month we were returning from Salyan and on the bus one man said he knew who I was – the running American.
Well, this week, Neylah asked if she could run with me. Neylah and her sister, Gunay, are university students. They both come to my 10:00 a.m. MWF conversation club and are a joy! They attend the university in Baku for a month every quarter and take what is referred to as correspondence courses. They have had many cultural experiences and are a couple of the most independent thinking women I have met.
So, now I say I will meet them in park at 8:00 a.m. I am there a couple of minutes early, dressed in athletic pants, sweatshirt, hat, and gloves. They arrive similarly attired, but in bright colors. We begin to run in the park which is a long median (about 2 KM) about 20 meters wide. There are 2 walking lanes with trees and roses in the middle and trees and roses between the walkway and the street. The walkway is made up of tiles about 1 foot square, and there are 10 tiles across.
I am expecting a lot of stares, but everyone is very nice. Gunay drops out after about 1 minute saying she really doesn’t like this. Neylah is really faster than I and I breathe hard and try to keep up. As we run I try to make small talk, and near the end of the park where we are to turn around are two newly completed apartment buildings. I comment they are beautiful buildings, and her response is “I’ve never been by here before.” This is an active person who has lived all her life in Shirvan and goes to school in Baku. Her walking in the park is limited. I think of her as an adventuresome female in the best sense of the word, but I am shocked that she has limited her walking in her home town to such a small area. That limitation is a reflection of the protection of the young women by their families and society. We ran together for about 20 minutes. When we passed by our meeting place, she went home, and I finished my jog.

Andrew continues to recover from is minor surgery, but has been a bit too active and may have had a slight setback. Linda has been ill this week missing two days of school and her conversation clubs, but she is doing much better. We visited a preschool today which will be the subject of next week’s blog.

Take care our dear friends and family as we anxiously look forward to our return to the good old U.S.A.

The Holidays Are Over

Recently a fellow Volunteer, Linda Gies, traveled from Ganja to Neftjala through Salyan and back through Shirvan. She was supporting another Volunteer's work in Neftjala. The pictures are from Linda Gies.

Linda G's first stop was in Salyan where she visited with Leslie and observed her work in Salyan. The first picture is of Leslie's counterpart conducting an upper level class. That is typical dress during the winter months. The school uniforms are mandatory again after the Spring Equinox. Now, it is warmth that is important.

The lower level class is to illustrate the universal joy and beauty of children all over the world. No matter where kids are kids.

Linda G traveled with Peace Corps staff from Salyan to Neftjala. Before leaving Salyan they wanted to eat lunch at a restaurant. The driver inquired where they might purchase a meal since not all places are open to women. Amazing as it may seem to us, the driver was told no where in Salyan, but at the restaurants between towns a meal could be purchased.

They stopped and to make a rest stop and eat, and Linda G caught a great picture of this restroom - Kishi is Azerbaijan for "Men's". That's right - men's and men's. The women's was in another location and available, but the picutre is very funny.

In Neftjala a volunteer Jordyn has a drama club. They performed their second play of the year, the Wizard of Oz. Jordyn was creative in using sheets for background scenery. The sheets were painted by a parent. The play was presented three times to a full house every performance. These are some of the little successes that inspire us all.

The holidays are over, and we get back to the routines of our work. Then one evening Linda looked at our Christmas tree (New Year's tree) and knew we had to give it to someone who might appreciate it. The neighbors across the way have 3 small children. They are very bright and a joy to be around. Linda invited the mother over and through the translation program on the laptop (Dilmanc 2.5) communicated that she wanted them to have our tree, lights and decorations for next year. The mother had to ask her husband first, but later knocked at our door, and with the children by her side we took photos, and then presented our tree to them. Smiles abounded as I carried the tree from its old home to the new. Again, it is one of those special moments. I will post the picture next week.

To all our family and friends in the United States. We have been reading about the weather. You are constantly in our thoughts and prayers during the snow storms and exceedingly low temperatures. We started looking around and thinking maybe we should send packages to the United States with hand warmers, hats, and gloves. Stay warm, and Linda wants everyone to know she is following the Jayhawks from afar.

A post script: This week while we were in Baku traveling to the dentist my telephone was stolen from my pocket. I have filed an incident report with the Peace Corps and provided information. I will probably get another phone and number within the next few weeks. The police find the cell phones in about 60% of the reported cases.

Happy New Year 2010 Is Finally Here

PICTURES: The day after Christmas we traveled to Salyan to celebrate Christmas, left to right are 3 AZ7s, Clarissa, Melissa, Beth, and 3 AZ6s, Jordyn, Leslie, and Linda. Next, we begin New Year’s Eve with supper around 6:00 p.m. Toasting with tea and Diet Dr. Pepper while the table is set with deviled eggs, a ham from the U.S. courtesy of Richard and Gloria Bray, sweet potatoes from the U.S. and for dessert Yummy Bars. We walked around Shirvan and there is Linda and Denney, no wait, I think that might be a young Azerbaijani man having a great New Year’s Eve. People gathered to have family photos made (explanation below), and finally Linda in front of the Heydar Aliev monument “To you Shirvanites Happy Holiday”.

Back to Christmas, last week were pictures of the celebration in Shirvan at Jesse’s, our site mate. Frank commented that some of the Volunteers look very young, and they are. The young Volunteers are very brave and we admire their vitality. However, there is a definite and natural division between many of the younger Volunteers and us. At Jesse’s it was an atmosphere of a Frat Party – disorganized, come what may, lots of alcohol, and 13 people sleeping on the floor. We felt very uncomfortable and attempted to relieve our discomfort through chosen conversations with a few of the attendees. They had met earlier in the day and had gone to the Bazaar together, put names on stockings, and then later called us that they were at Jesse’s. We are definitely left out and separated, but also more at ease with that situation. We left early around 10:00 p.m. with the excuse and reality that we are old. The chosen conversations were good, but we were certainly not “a part” of the group.
On Saturday the 26th we traveled to Leslie’s and had an enjoyable meal with more traditional Christmas dishes. We enjoyed good conversation and I got to help Leslie with some of her computer issues. We spent the night while Clarissa and Jordyn returned to their homes in Neftjala. There was plenty of space, and we were all comfortable and private. Linda and I returned home on Sunday morning feeling very good about our time in Salyan.
Then Sunday afternoon at 4:00 p.m. I went to a Christmas party at the home of an Azerbaijani Christian family. It was 3 hours of music, devotion, food, and then games. There were 20 people there and even though I struggled to understand even a portion of what was said, it was a wonderful time.

December 31 to January 4 are non-work days in celebration of 2 holidays. December 31 is World Azerbaijan Unification Day. It is a day when Azerbaijan people all over the world remember their homeland and culture. In Azerbaijan it is New Year’s Eve! The day is filled with people going to the Bazaar and buying fruit, nuts, meat, and preparing big meals for their families. The meals include capital salad, kabob, plov, dolmas, cakes, and tea.
FOOD DEFINITIONS: Plov – rice with lots of butter, chicken or beef or mutton cooked with onions caramelized in oil and sometimes with egg, dates, raisins, and can have variations of dried fruit and black-eyed peas. Dolma – the central ingredients are mutton, rice, onion, cilantros, and dill, mixed together and folded with leaves of either grape or cabbage. The grape leaf dolma is more traditional during the holidays and the cabbage leaf dolma is more of a common meal dolma. There is also what is called 3 sister dolma which is the meat, onion, rice, cilantros, dill mixture stuffed into tomato, eggplant, and bell pepper. Capital salad is made with diced cooked potato, onion, peas, carrot, cilantros or some green seasoning and mayonnaise or yogurt.

During the day there are firecrackers going off all over the city, and it is a bit amazing that more people do not get injured.

Then about 8:00 p.m. it settled down, and Linda and I conjectured that everyone was eating their evening meal. My Counterpart came to our home with her 2 children and brought us plov, capital salad, and pickles. Our neighbor then brought us grape leaf dolmas. Linda and I had already eaten the meal described above, but deeply appreciated what became my late night snack and lunch on January 1.

Linda and I went for a walk around Shirvan’s parks at 10:00 p.m. There are 3 major and 1 minor New Year’s trees in Shirvan. People come to these trees and can have family photos made for just a few manat. Families and friends continue to have their pictures made at the trees for about another week. At the trees there are characters with whom the photos are made. There is Shaxta Baba (Grandfather Frost – Santa Claus), Snow Girl, and usually either a large Mickey Mouse-like or Donald Duck-like. A great picture would have been when we walked by and Mickey was taking a smoke break. At the 10:00 – 11:00 p.m. hour there were always dozens of families waiting in line.

We returned home at 11:15 and awaited the midnight hour when we opened our window on the balcon (porch), and watched the neighbors shooting firecrackers, roman candles, and a few other assorted explosive devices.

All that is missing is football!

We wish for all of you the very best in 2010.
To all our friends and family in the Midwest you still have our sympathy and thoughts during the snowstorm and extremely cold temperatures. Update on Andrew is that he is doing very well. He has had some of the stitches removed and plans to go back to school on Monday.