This and That

This week has been quiet. Linda concluded her FLEX preparation class. FLEX is an exchange student program for high school students. The process begins with 2000 or so students taking a test where they must answer 16 questions in 15 minutes. Those that pass that phase are invited to take a second test. Last year of the 2000 first test takers, 600 were invited for the second round. The second test is an English comprehension test. There are 3 essays and a listening comprehension section. Of those 600 last year it was narrowed down 200 and then round three is interviews and group activities. The final number selected 40-45. If selected the student is awarded a round trip to the USA, one school year education, and housing with a host family.
Linda began last spring by inviting a group of FLEX Alumni from Youth Vision, Make A Difference to speak at her school. About 30 students came to listen to charismatic and caring speakers. Linda then invited students who wanted to work to prepare for the FLEX testing to come during the summer to her school, and she would work with them.
During the time between the Youth Vision and her class Linda sought out information and advice from Volunteers who had held FLEX preparation classes. One Volunteer advised that she keep the class limited to only those students who really had a chance to go if selected. Many good students want to study in the United States, but their parents would never permit them to go. Others want to go, but may not be willing to pay the price of hard work and long hours of preparation.
This summer Linda has been helping students with testing, English comprehension, listening skills, and interviewing skills. For 20 sessions Linda would prepare lessons and assignments. One Monday Linda used other Volunteers to serve as mock interviewers. It was a good class, and testing will begin in the fall.

The bad news is that it has rained a lot in the western sections of Azerbaijan causing flooding and a high river. The river is not only high, but dirty. The city would not provide water on Wednesday because it was “too dirty.” I don’t think you wanted to see what “too dirty” meant – I sure didn’t. So, we went without a water source for about 4 days. We conserved and made it fine, but the first water through the pipes left about a 3/8” layer of mud in the tub. The picture above is of a good water day – the rest I will leave to your imagination.

One of the popular children’s activities is the small battery driven cars in the parks. A parent can pay 75 cents and the child can drive around for 30 minutes. A person must be careful walking in the parks to avoid getting “run down” by inexperienced drivers. If the child is too young to drive the parent may operate a remote control.

Teachers have begun going back to the schools in preparation for the beginning of classes on September 15. The students are still enjoying the end of summer.

As the beginning of school approaches Linda will conclude her Working Adult Conversation Club next week. She will be working with the participants to see if they may want to continue in the fall after her schedule is established.

The new group of Trainees will arrive around October 1. Linda and I have offered to host 1-2 in our home for a site visit, and have applied to assist in sessions on Conversation Clubs, Basic Computer Instruction, Working with a Counterpart, and the Education System in Azerbaijan. The Staff is in the planning process and we should know something in a month or so.
We have heard that there will be 62 Trainees – soon to be Volunteers coming to share this experience. At least 1 is a male over the age of 60. He will be welcomed by Bill Colcord and myself, because we older fellows have to stick together.

A quick update, Dorothy Colcord who broke her leg while we were in Georgia had the cast removed today. All seems to be going well in the healing process and she should be ready to resume her many activities when school resumes.

School has not yet begun, and I am beginning to prepare for winter. Returning Volunteers from AZ5 have given us DVDs of television programs, House and Monk, the first seasons. Linda and I have enjoyed them, and realize in the winter little happens at home except working at staying warm. Linda loves Monk, so for her birthday and Christmas presents I have ordered 5 more seasons of Monk. The internet is a wonderful!

Saying Thankyou and Goodbye to AZ5, and TWTWTW

The first picture is of; Jane Flegal - PCV Lankaran 2007-2009, Ruhanges – Jane’s counterpart, Linda, Whitney Bey – PCV Jallibad 2007-2009, and in the background is Ruhanges’ husband. A part of the Pre-Service Training is to visit a Peace Corps Volunteer at their site and observe what being a PCV is like in Azerbaijan. Our visit was to Lankaran and our host was Jane Flegal. Whitney Bey came to Lankaran to help enhance our time in Lankaran. Jane and Whitney were patient, kind, and honest in answering all our questions and responding to our anxieties.
On August 2 while Jane and Whitney were on their way to Baku for their medical visit before their close of service, we were privileged to host them for an evening. We wanted to have more time with them before they return to the United States, and we still had more questions about the PCV experience. I want all our friends and family to know how much we admire and appreciate these 2 soon to be RPCV. It is very difficult to be a single female PCV. Jane and Whitney represented the United States, the Peace Corps with honor and dedication, and we should all be proud of their service.
The second picture is of Jane and Linda by the Caspian. The third is of Jane’s classroom in Lankaran. As you can see it is in poor condition even for Azerbaijan standards. When we visited with Jane’s counterpart, I asked, “Why do you think Jane came to Azerbaijan?” Ruhanges responded with affection that Jane came to share teaching techniques, but even more of herself, and that Ruhanges will be a better teacher for Jane’s coming.

On August 16 we also said goodbye and thank you to Jenni Onslow – Salyan, and Kathleen Keating – Salyan village. Linda and I made our first venture in traveling by ourselves by going to Salyan. Jenni hosted us for lunch. Jenni was in the Youth Development program and began swimming classes for women. Now swimming lessons for women may not be unusual in the USA – here in Azerbaijan this was a cultural achievement and demonstrated the confidence and trust the women placed in Jenni.
Kathleen was an English teacher in a village outside Salyan. For a woman to serve in a village takes endurance, strength, and the highest commitment.

As we said goodbye and thank you to these AZ5 Volunteers, Jenni said “We (AZ5) have fewer days than you have months left to live in Azerbaijan. It is amazing how one counts down and marks certain milestone dates. The big countdown begins when a volunteer has less than a year. Then every time a volunteer celebrates an event, they say something like, “that’s the last Christmas I’ll spend in Azerbaijan”.

For Linda and I we are marking our service with the upcoming dates: September 23 – having lived in Azerbaijan 1 year, November 2 – half-way through our time in Azerbaijan, December 11 – only 1 more year to go.

Now, for the younger readers of this blog, there was an old TV show entitled That Was The Week That Was (TW3). The rest of this blog is TW3.

People’s attitude about Monday’s is universal. When I jog on Monday mornings, everyone moves more slowly and with some trepidation for the upcoming week. But, for us the week was most unusual.
On Tuesday we attended a “Toy” which is a wedding. The picture above is of the Groom, Bride, and fellow workers at the Library. The woman on the far right (tallest) is named Dilara. On Tuesday morning she came to me and had a small gold cross that she wanted to give to Linda. Linda wore it to the wedding. What makes the cross so special was that Dilara’s mother had brought it from Moscow 20 years ago. Now, Dilara wanted to present it to Linda.
Note the last picture – we got to dance at the wedding – European style! We still got it.
On Wednesday at the conclusion of my final conversation club, a new participant asked for some time alone. His name is Elnur and he is a 5th year medical student in Baku. His English is excellent. His brother had been to the library and had seen the conversation clubs. Elnur then asked if I was a Christian. I said, “Yes”, and he replied immediately, “So am I”. His aunt was the first member of the family to become Christian while living in Russia (this during the Soviet Union). The aunt was influential in Elnur’s mother and father becoming Christian, and his entire family is now active in their faith. Elnur attends a Baptist church in Baku (1 of 4) in the Ganjlik area; a familiar area to Linda and I. The services are from 1 until 3 on Sunday afternoons. Now, Linda and I have a place and people to share in worship.
When I came home, I told Linda my day was better than hers. I told her about Elnur and his family. As tears filled Linda’s eyes we were thankful.
On Thursday evening we hosted an adult conversation club with 8 in attendance. At about 8:45 p.m. we met with Yergona and her family. Yergona is a student at Baku State University who lives in Saray (the village where we lived during training). Linda and Yergona tutored each other in English and Azerbaijani. Yergona was in Shirvan to celebrate the fourth birthday of her nephew and the family wanted us to join them. Yes, the party did not begin until 9:00 or so.
I sat with men in one portion of the courtyard, and Linda with the women in another area. There were 2 teenage boys, the father, father’s brother, the grandfather, and I. Linda had Yergona to help her with translation while I was using all the Azerbaijani, sign language, pantomimes, and primal grunts that I knew to communicate.
During the party we danced a little swing to a popular Azerbaijani song, and had a wonderful evening.
What I most want to share is that during the evening, we shared how we wanted to be their friends. The grandfather told me that he served in the Soviet army in Cuba, and he had seen Castro. I remember the missile crisis, the cold war, and now I was sitting with a former Soviet soldier, sharing food, drink. The most important things to him now are his 8 grandchildren. Family and friends make life worthwhile.
This week could only happen in the Peace Corps experience.
Thank you for your love and support.

Birthdays in Azerbaijan

Pictures: Denney’s birthday cake – note that even though Linda had the message written out on a piece of paper it is still misspelled. Linda purchased Denney’s cake at the Turkish bakery and surprised him at the Library with the help of the Library staff. Back in November Denney surprised Linda with the help of Peace Corps Trainees. There is the picture of our two language clusters plus a few others who came along. We have a copy of that photo in our family album, which we take with us everywhere. One of the favorite activities to tell the viewer that all of the people in the picture are Americans except 2 who are Azerbaijani, and can you pick out the 2 Azerbaijani? (The answer is at the end of the posting). Denney received 2 special gifts. One is the little figurine from the library staff, and it is of the three characters of Novruz, the most popular national holiday. The other special gift was from the college and university students who collected money and surprised Denney with the original oil painting of the Maiden’s Tower in Baku. I was truly touched by both gifts, but especially from the students.
Linda and I also went to Ujar this past week (more below) and these are the pictures from the day camp we assisted.

Birthdays in Azerbaijan are celebrated much like in the United States. There is a cake with candles – one for every year of age or just one candle. A wish is made and the candle(s) is blown out. Friends and family may give presents. The family of the birthday person comes to their home and has cake and/or a meal.
When students are away from home, their classmates celebrate with the birthday person. The students collect money, and they purchase a cake, and then reserve space at the “buffet” which is the university café. Tea is served at the buffet and the cake is cut.
Cutting the cake is a bit different. A circular piece is cut in the middle, and then slices are cut from the inner circular piece to the outer edge.
Presents can be anything from souvenirs to flowers. In our host family a 10 year old girl was given a beautiful ceramic bowl. If I were the child, I would have been thinking “This is great if I was a grandmother!”
No one here was aware of trick candles that are blown out and then relight. However, there are candles which are mini-sparklers.

Linda and I traveled to Ujar last Tuesday afternoon. The bus ride was about 3 hours. Ujar is to the west of Shirvan, and it necessary for us to go to Hajacabul (the closest town to Shirvan to the north, but on the main east-west highway) to get the bus. We take any bus going west and tell the driver we want to stop in Ujar. Ujar has a wonderful new bus station and it has the best public toilets we have seen in all the bus stations in Azerbaijan. The only problem is that it is on the edge of the city. So when we arrived we took a taxi to meet Wendy.
Wendy is an AZ6, and during training she attended the Bible study group. She is in her early 20’s. Wendy was assisting Candice an AZ5 who will be returning to the United States on August 28.
Summer camps have become a popular project in Azerbaijan. A volunteer will organize and promote anything from a day camp to week long activities. There are 2 large projects where youth travel to a camp and stay in cabins together. The girls camp is called GLOW, Girls Leading Our World, and the boys camp is called ABLE, Azerbaijan Boys Leadership E… These camps have about 45 students and are funded through a SPA (Special Project Assistance) grants from the Peace Corps. A committee will organize each camp and then Volunteers are asked to assist.
Individuals also may hold camps, such as Jane’s Yay Kamp (Jane’s Summer Camp) in Lankaran. Jane organizes activities and has students apply to attend the camp. The camp sessions are 3 hours Monday – Thursday for three weeks with a different theme each week. The themes are usually music, sports, environment, crafts, etc. Jane has around 130 students who come to her school in Lankaran for the camp. Jane has 7 – 10 Volunteers each week who give of their time, travel at their expense, and follow Jane’s directions. Jane houses the Volunteers in her apartment and with the help of the three other Lankaran Volunteers.
The camp in Ujar is for Girls only, and was begun last year by a talented Volunteer named Dana. It was our first experience at helping with one of the several camps. This camp was conducted each Wednesday during the summer and every day the final week.
Our experience was mixed. The girls were enthusiastic and friendly. They responded to any attention from us. The activities were not well planned and there was little organization. The camp itself provided about 3 hours of fill time for the girls. There is so little organized activities for Azerbaijani children in the summers that they will respond to any effort in their behalf. This camp could have provided so much more for the students with just a little more effort in its design and implementation.
Our stay with Wendy and Candice made us appreciate our living conditions in Shirvan. Each had a room with access to a kitchen in a large house. For Volunteers housing can vary with each city and village. We all realize that our conditions will not be easy, but it is up to the Volunteers to make the best of our housing situations. A lot of work cleaning, arranging, and decorating are needed to make it comfortable and attractive. Some Volunteers do not extend the work to their living quarters.
Eating healthy requires budgeting and work, and unfortunately some Volunteers end up eating snack foods, soft drinks, and unbalanced meals. Gaining weight can be a problem.
Personal appearance requires a lot of diligence, but is well worth the effort in regards to respect from Azerbaijan people. It is very easy for Volunteers to give up caring for their general appearance especially their hair.
We returned to Shirvan after the camp on Wednesday, and ready to return to our routines! Maybe we’re getting old.

Answer to the Quiz: the young women in purple and red turtleneck sweaters were our Azerbaijan language and cultural facilitators.

Matanat

This will be our last posting about our trip to Tbilisi. While there we made our way to Gori which is the birthplace of Stalin. The pictures are of the only statue of Stalin left in the former Soviet Socialist Republics. When the Russians came into Georgia a year ago, they guarded the statue and museum. In the museum Denney is standing next to Stalin’s uniform, and there is a photo of his office furniture. His childhood home was very modest – 1 room with the original but restored furniture. The family’s landlord lived in the other room of the house, and Stalin’s father repaired shoes in a space below the house.
When we toured the museum, the guide was informative, but bland. The people of Gori are proud that their city was the birthplace of a historical figure, but not proud of some of the things Stalin did. The most interesting and moving story that our guide shared was about Stalin’s oldest son by his first wife. During the war Stalin’s son was captured while serving on the front line. Hitler offered to trade Stalin’s son for concessions. However, Stalin is reported to have replied that all the soldiers were his sons. What would he tell the fathers of all the other soldiers if he treated his son any differently than any other soldier. Hitler had the son executed.

Linda’s school counterpart Matanat invited us to her home this past week for dinner. Matanat (like most unmarried women in Azerbaijan) lives with her extended family – mother, brother, sister-in-law, nephew and niece. She is a very small woman with olive skin and dark eyes and hair. Their house has a separate building for the kitchen, an outdoor toilet and the main part of the house has the bedrooms and living room. There was an air conditioner in the living room. Matanat’s brother works different shifts and often has to sleep during the days. The mother and sister-in-law do all the cooking, housework, etc. Matanat and the brother have jobs to support the family. The mother handles all the money in the family. We had a wonderful meal with chicken and mutton, several salads, compote (a homemade punch), homemade bread, tomatoes, cucumbers, greens, and later outside we had hot tea, cake and watermelon. This would have been an expensive meal for this family. Matanat’s mother became very concerned for us when we had to quickly find an apartment and move out of our host family’s home. Matanat told Denney that she thinks often about me this summer when we are not in school and don’t see each other daily. She said I am like a sister to her. Together we teach, have tea, go shopping and have gone to an education conference in Baku. While in Baku for the conference, we had lunch with her sister-in-law and older sister who live in Baku. We stayed in a hotel for two nights during the conference. That was the first time Matanat had ever stayed in a hotel. I will demonstrate new teaching techniques and she has been very open to then trying the new methods in her classes. Matanat has taught for 24 years and would like to apply for a program to come to the U.S. for 6 weeks to teach with an English teacher. I hope to help her fill out the application. Matanat will explain cultural events and religious holidays to me. She will then ask and I will tell her about American culture and Christianity. We come from very different backgrounds but have become good friends and enjoy being with each other.

Next week celebrating birthdays.

More about Georgia

One of the sights we saw was a cave city, Uplistsikhe, just outside of Gori, Georgia. The history of the cave city begins centuries before Christ, and population ceased after the Mongols invaded. The estimated population was 20,000. Only a portion is open to tourist. We entered the Cave City through a 41 meter tunnel which would have been used as a secret escape tunnel during a siege.
A pagan sacrifice site where the throat of the animal was cut or head removed and the blood would flow into a holding area. Like any city there was the best neighborhood where the wealthy lived with high ceilings and large doors. Linda is standing in front of the drug store. The cubbies contained traces of medicinal remains and behind was the “laboratory”.
We could still see the roads and layout of the city. Not pictured, but along what would have been a main thoroughfare was one of three jails uncovered. The jails were basically deep holes and people would pass by and look into the holes to see who had been incarcerated. Evidently public humiliation was very much a part of the punishment.

This information comes from The Lonely Planet:
Uplistsikhe, this cave town is one of the oldest places of settlement in the Caucasus. It was founded in the late Bronze Age, around 1000 B.C. but developed mainly from the 6th to 1st centuries B.C. Before Georgia’s conversion to Christianity this was a special site for pagan rituals. When the Arabs occupied Tbilisi, Uplistsikhe became the residence of Georgian kings.
At its peak in the early Middle Ages, the city had a population of 20,000 spread over an area of 9.5 hectares. Now only the 4 hectare remains of the inner city are visible.
At the top of the hill is the three-church basilica which was built 9th to 10th century.


When we first journeyed into Georgia we could see a difference in the quality of the roads. Of course we did not have the opportunity to travel into many rural areas, but the infrastructure is better in Georgia than Azerbaijan. The agriculture was more developed and the climate was not nearly as arid as around Shirvan.
Georgia claims to be the home of the origin of the grape. Their claim is that the oldest grape seeds ever found were in Georgia. The eastern part of the country is abundant with vineyards and the country is known for its wine.
Our guide was quite proud to tell us that of all the former Soviet Socialists Republics Georgia has the least corruption. Lessening corruption has been a major goal of the Georgian government. Our guide said that if any policeman was caught trying to extort a bribe they were dismissed. Corruption is a way of life in former SSR. Jobs must be purchased or are awarded through nepotism, entrance into a university may be earned or bought, grades may be earned or bought. The corruption within the educational systems causes inferior doctors, nurses, teachers and professionals.
The Georgian educational system is in the early stages of converting from the Soviet model to a more American model. There has been a year added to the mandatory attendance (interestingly our guide opposed and thought 11 years was enough). It is the methods that are also undergoing a change. In Azerbaijan there is still the Soviet model of rote memorization. One of the goals for Peace Corps Volunteers is to introduce as many interactive methods and techniques as possible.
Georgia is also a very religious country. It is much more religious than Azerbaijan. The population is 80% Orthodox. There is freedom of religion. There are religious symbols everywhere and more churches than one can count. The general public prides itself on adhering and practicing its faith. However, many of their acts are almost like superstitions. There are many large metal crosses constructed in the hills and when a person drives by a cross it is to help them arrive safely. We think the drivers should slow down, and that would help God keep everyone safer.
When we toured a church if it was eighteenth century or later – it is modern. Churches are historical if they are pre ninth century. The women cover their heads and the Orthodox churches have many icons, no pews or chairs, and the services last from 2 to 3 hours.

Now, here is a little news from this week. Linda began a “Courtyard Conversation Club” on Thursday. We have 5 apartment buildings which surround a small park area. At night it is a hub of activity. Because of the heat most of the children and young adults sleep during the afternoon, and will walk around town and play in the parks until 1:00 a.m. Or so we’ve been told – Linda and I rarely stay up past midnight (10:30 really). Linda posted signs and went building to building telling people of her plans. Thursday morning arrived and the hour to begin was 10:00. Linda put out her banner (a Mickey Mouse sheet) on our clothes line and proceeded to the courtyard. There were 2 girls who would not approach her until she coaxed them. She began with 2 more joining, and a good start with 4. BUT, before the hour was over she had 26 children, 3 teenagers, and 4 mothers all participating. We had 2 women knock on our door at 10:00 p.m. asking when was the next session. Linda will be conducting her courtyard activities on Tuesdays and Thursdays.

We are preparing to say goodbye to the AZ5 Volunteers who will be returning to the United States in September. We are also anxious to welcome the AZ7 Trainees who will become the AZ7 Volunteers. The AZ7 are to arrive the last of September. After the AZ5’s leave, we will be the veterans.