Coming Soon to the United States: Linda and Denney Rives

We have tried to keep up with the election process. We voted absentee and have reviewed the results. Even when we are in the minority, we definitely have an even greater appreciation for our democratic process. We can feel confident that our votes are counted.
The parliamentary elections in Azerbaijan are this Sunday November 7. There will be a few hundred international observers to view the process. A few long term observers are here now and have observed the pre-election procedures. We have had the privilege to meet two of the long term observers from the Organization of Security and Cooperation in Europe (OSCE). They have observed elections in several countries and their experiences have been enlightening to hear.
We have shared dinner with them on three occasions. Linda prepared fried chicken, mashed potatoes, green beans, and we shared our cherry cheese cake. We know they will never forget us after having had basically the same meal or two for almost 6 weeks.
We are so fortunate to have all our freedoms in the United States, but freedoms bring responsibility. We want to be even better citizens and we certainly will be more grateful for the American way of life.

We are within a few days of our return. And the photos are of good-byes.
Maybe it is time to come home when:
It is easier to see through your underwear than the water.
You dream about a good bed.
You wake up at 2:00 a.m. 2 weeks before you are leaving to think about what to pack.
You have said your goodbyes to dear friends.
You have to get to know your 2 new daughters-in-law.
You have only 1 roll of toilet paper left and you will not buy more.
You have ½ tube of toothpaste and you will not buy more.
You have 1 day of crackers and cheese.
YOU HAVE RUN OUT OF COFFEE.
You have less than ½ jar of peanut butter.
No more mayonnaise, eggs, milk, dish wash detergent, clothes detergent, any way you get the idea.

We will be sharing about our Azerbaijan experience at the Archie, Missouri Community Thanksgiving Service on November 21. During the time after our arrival, we will be sorting through pictures, remembering so many experiences, and most of all reflecting on how this experience has impacted us.

One thing Linda and I have agreed on is that we have much more confidence in our ability to adapt. We feel that going into the future we will be able to adjust to all of life’s circumstances. We don’t know exactly what the future may hold, but we will be looking for ways to serve.

See you soon.

Always Learning

Last week we had the opportunity to a Fall Harvest Holiday. There were about 25 people gathered together to sing, celebrate and pray. The woman playing the guitar is quite a talented musician. Just like in the United States people ask me not to sing along, but just listen and enjoy.
The menu was a delicious salad with beets, potatoes, onions, carrots, and mayonnaise, and the main course being plov and chicken. Plov is the national rice dish, which often includes dried fruits and other ingredients depending upon the chef. There is a religious tolerance with limitations that any religious group must register with the government. The regulations within the registry eliminate any extremism.

Today is our last Saturday night in Shirvan. In one week we will go to Baku for rest and final Peace Corps processing before we depart on November 10. We certainly are looking forward to our returning to family and friends, but the difficulty in leaving people who have been so kind to us has become a reality.
My counterpart asked me what I might like for a good-bye present. I started telling those around that I did not need a purchased gift because they have given me the greatest gift of their friendship. As I got to the last portion of the sentence, I felt the emotion welling up within.
Linda and I have prepared a short thank you note that has been translated for us into Azerbaijani. Below is each:

We have lived in Shirvan for 2 years. We have met many good people. You have been kind to us while we were here. We want to thank you. We will always remember the wonderful people of Azerbaijan. We hope you will also remember us. We leave for the United States on November 10.

Denney and Linda Rives

Sirvanda biz 2 il yasadiq.Burada biz cox yaxsi insanlarla tanis olduq.Biz burada yasadigimiz muddetde siz bizimle cox mehriban oldunuz.Buna gore size tesekkur etmek isteyirik.Biz hec vaxt azerbaycanlilari unutmamayacagiq.Umid edirik ki,siz de bizi hec vaxt unutmayacagsiniz.Biz noyabrin 10u Amerika Birlesmis Statlarina gedeceyik.

Deni və Linda Rives
We will pass out the notes to taxi drivers, store owners, friends, and many people who have been so kind to us. We have special thank yous for our counterparts, neighbors and very special people.

We continue to have those Peace Corps Moments. Recently I was in a village near Baku for a teaching computers session, and I needed help getting back to Baku. One of the Language and Culture Facilitators, Ravshad, accompanied me to a familiar area. As we were riding the bus I asked how he became an LCF? Ravshad’s family had hosted an AZ7 during training. The AZ7 was Sharif, one of the most talented and outstanding Volunteers I have met. Sharif had encouraged Ravshad and helped him prepare. Ravshad has become a great LCF.
Sharif went to a village replacing an AZ6 who had early terminated. I was so happy that Sharif had been assigned there. The village deserved a good Volunteer. The AZ6 had not served the people, but had been extremely negative. As I shared my appreciation for Sharif and how the previous Volunteer did not give to the people what they deserved, Ravshad opened my eyes and heart. Ravshad said that the AZ6 had done good because she had been willing to come. Just being willing to make the choice to serve makes an impression on people. Ravshad said that Azerbaijani people had told him, “If I lived in America, I would not leave to come to Azerbaijan.” Ravshad said, “It makes me think I should do more for my country and other people.”

Drop by drop a lake is made.

www.thereifixed.com

About a month ago I wrote that our plan was to lose 5-10 pounds before returning the United States. We know we will gain weight upon our arrival since our first stop after the airport will be Hereford House Restaurant in Zona Rosa. Linda will order a filet, baked potato, salad, and flambé bread pudding for dessert, and I will have a KC-Strip, baked potato, Cesar salad, and share her bread pudding (not that we’ve thought about this or anything). Now I must write the plan is to lose 20 pounds after returning to the United States. We have begun baking our own bread. The evidence is the hotdog.

Last year my brother, John, sent 23 photos from www.thereifixedit.com. If you have not seen any of photos from this website, please go there immediately and view. Jay Leno uses photos from that site during his “Headlines” bit on Monday nights. Anyway, I laughed out loud when I viewed them. Now, a year later, that is my life.
In Azerbaijan there is a practicality with disregard for appearance or long term affects. In one of my conversation clubs I used John’s photos and I thought they would provide laughter, but instead the comment was “that is a good idea.” The second picture is a good example of the approach to repair or installation here. That is the electric line going from the pole taking a ninety-degree turn into the house via a tree. No knew pole needed for installation.

I never checked under our kitchen sink to notice exactly how the plumbing worked. Oh, when our sink would fall off to awkward angles I checked to determine how I might steady it. Note the cabinet door to the right – it was just the right size. The small 1” board to the rear I put diagonally a pipe and the sink, and the 1” board to the far right with Duck Tape was fitted from a hole in the wall across and under the drain pipe and then Duck Taped to the post on the left. However, that was inadequate. After a year I was washing dishes and water started covering my feet. I quickly surmised that there was a leak under the sink. My Duck Tape had finally given way and there were several joints that allowed water to flow freely instead of going to the drainpipes.
If I had been ambitious and smart, I would have noticed that the design of the drainpipes is to have a removable collection point for solid waste, which should be cleaned out on a regular basis because of the lack of garbage disposals. Instead the result is thereifixedit.com style with gratitude to those who sent us CARE packages in those boxes.

That is my Casio watch, and it only has to last 2 more weeks, and I can buy a new watchband. I started repairing with Scotch tape, and then a clear plastic tape bought locally, and finally now the best result is the handyman’s best friend, Duck Tape.

Finally there is the miracle of the running shoes. I brought those shoes new from the U.S. I put off using them until after we moved to site, 2 years ago. Normally a pair of running shoes last me 6 months at best. My pronation causes a severe wearing on the right foot outside portion of the heel. However, these shoes will last me 2 more weeks. I know that does not qualify for a miracle such as Hanukah where the 1 days supply of oil burned for 8 days, but it is as close as I will ever get. The soles are still good, but the uppers are a bit worn.

We received our final confirmation that we will leave Shirvan on November 7 for Baku, and then November 10 for the United States. During the three nights in Baku, we will rest and reflect. Since receiving that word, we have been busy allocating our possessions that will be left in Azerbaijan, planning our packing, and throwing away worn out clothing and utensils.

Forgive my ramblings

This posting seems to be rambling thoughts.
This week I had the privilege to go to village of Khirdilan to assist in the Pre-Service Training (PST) of the AZ8’s. It was a joy to see 14 men and women preparing to serve the people we have come to love. It is a difficult and trying time for them as they learn the language and are exposed to the cultural differences. I was quite impressed by those I met with their dedication and desire.

The first photo is from our training days. The first week of November the Trainees receive their site assignments to where they will go after their swearing-in ceremony. Linda and I are pointing at Shirvan on Azerbaijan map. Two years have passed since those training days. Little did we know what all lay ahead of us.
Now that we are looking towards the date of November 10 when we will return to our family and friends, we spend a lot of time evaluating our Peace Corps experience. I always like to ask other Volunteers, “If knew then what you know now about what you would go through, would you do it?” Others like ourselves answer with a “Yes!”
I worked with my Program Manager to present a session on Teaching Computers in Azerbaijan. I basically offered what I had observed. Everyone knows computer skills are important for future jobs. However, basic computer skills are not taught in the schools. In the United States teaching the keyboard begins in the earliest grades. In Azerbaijan it is not taught at all. It is laborious to watch a bright student with a hand written document enter it into a Word document. My cousin Melissa who teaches 5th grade wrote me that her students’ interest in using the computer potential was proportional to their keyboard skills.
One of our PCVs counterpart has translated a basic typing course into Azerbaijani and sells the books for 5 AZN. We have purchased these books for our counterparts to examine and use. We encourage everyone to use computer keyboard learning programs, such as Mavis Beacon Teaches Typing. The students enjoy the games used in the program, but don’t take time to learn the basic finger positions which the games reinforce.
The good news is that IREX is also offering training in using Facebook, Youtube, and blogs as social journalistic tools.

When I went to Khirdilan, I took a taxi, and was scared to death during the ride. Drivers are either accelerating or breaking. In Azerbaijan in an 8 month period there were 539 people killed in motor vehicle accidents with the primary cause was speeding. In that 8 month period there were also 199 pedestrians killed, and another 350 injured.
That seems like a lot to me for a population of almost 9 million, but less than half of the families own motor vehicles.

The second photo is a photo of one way we were felt to feel welcome at our host family upon our arrival in Shirvan. It is a salad with the red color provided by beets, and the “Welcome” being cucumbers.

The third is a pumpkin. While staying with a host family in Khirdilan for one night, I was served a delicious rice and pumpkin dish.

The fourth is of a pomegranate still on the tree. Now is pomegranate season, and they are tasty and cheap. Linda does not care for pomegranates because they are messy for her to eat and she does not like to eat the seeds.

Lastly is a note about souvenirs. When we shared with our family that our invitation from the Peace Corps had come from Azerbaijan, my brother said that he envisioned a tee-shirt which read “My brother served the Peace Corps in Azerbaijan and all I got was this lousy tee-shirt.” I hate to tell him, but he isn’t even getting a tee-shirt. When we pack to go home, we are 2 years older, and we will bring only what we can carry - which isn't as much as we would like to think. There is no souvenir which will be able to fully represent our Azerbaijan experiences. We will not bring souvenirs for our many friends and family, but we will bring our memories.

One Month to Go

Tomorrow will mark 1 month to go, so it will be a Diet Dr. Pepper day for Linda. My cousin, Melissa Williamson, sent Linda 6 Diet DP’s and for that we are very thankful because we’re absolutely sure Linda can make it to the finish now!

Second picture is of Matt and Parvaneh Daneshmand who will be Mr. and Mrs. Matt Rives very soon. They called to give us the news last Sunday, and we couldn’t be happier. We will have 2 daughters-in-law and Linda will no longer be outnumbered 3 to 1, but it will be 3-3.

The third picture really needs no explanation other than the Peace Corps does not allow Volunteers to operate any motor vehicles in Azerbaijan, but sometimes temptation is just too great.

The fourth photo is three sheep in the backseat of a car. Not an uncommon site. Automobiles outside of the major cities are used as all purpose vehicles. I have observed men cutting grass and then stuffing it into every available space of the 4-door Lada for later use in feeding cattle. There are automobiles loaded from ceiling to floor with apples, watermelons, and any local produce. Often building supplies, furniture, refrigerators, and local luggage are on top of an automobile. In regards to the sheep, it really isn’t too expensive if they split the taxi fare 3 ways.

Linda and I just returned from Peace Corps headquarters in Baku completing our medical and dental exams before closing our service. We will be covered by Peace Corps insurance for 1 month following our departure from country. If there are any later complications caused by our time in Azerbaijan, including mental health issues, we can they apply for treatment from the government.
While in Baku we saw 2 tourist attractions. One is a Zoroastrian Temple. Azerbaijan has always been known as the land of fire. Zoroastrian worshipers used fire in their cleansing ceremonies. The temple is built with five walls to resemble a star. In the center of the temple is a flame which was once natural gas escaping and a natural flame (now piped in due earth quake damage). The flame is housed under a square roof with a smaller brick square like a chimney on each corner. Each corner represents one of the four major elements, earth (soil), water, wind, and fire. It was quite interesting and we had a very good guide. It was an important site because it was on the Silk Road from India to Europe. Many Indian Zoroastrian followers and priests came to this site. There are 26 small rooms in the outer walls for worship and meditation.

The second site was the “burning stone” near Baku. The natural gas fed rock has been “on fire” for centuries. The heat was amazing, and such a site. I thought of the burning bush of Exodus. (We were not anticipating this opportunity and did not have our camera.)

Another Peace Corps moment to relate from our day in Baku; we were returning to our hotel via the Metro (Baku subway system). As we made our way from the train to the surface, we ran into Rauf. Rauf is one of the most computer savvy people I have met in Azerbaijan. He was the Director of the IREX IATP (Internet Access and Training Program) at the Central Library from 2001 – 2005. Rauf always concludes his conversations with me with “How can I help you?” My reply is always, “Nothing now, but just to know that I have a friend as you is enough.” Linda and I told him we were finishing our service in a month and would be returning the United States and 2 new daughters-in-law. He congratulated us, and then added, “Thank you for what you have given to Azerbaijan. Thank you for your service.” Rauf’s spontaneous gesture warmed our hearts on a cool evening.

A Unique Restaurant

These are the final pictures of our adventure in Ilisu. All 9 of us were walking from our hotel which is just outside the actual village through the village to a restaurant which is famous in the area. The first photo is of a side passage in the village. Ilisu is very old and is a good example of village life.
There were a few small markets and one nice market which we decided to stop at on our way back. We continued through the entire village and had not reached the famous restaurant. Linda, Leslie, and I were ready to quit, go back to the store and buy a few things to eat. But, the group had the better wisdom, and also flagged down a car and asked the driver how far was it to our desired location. Only 1 kilometer was the answer! We trekked on and found the most unique restaurant we have seen in Azerbaijan. The castle look, the bear, the camel, and the horseless carriage were all there. They gave us our own room in a castle tower (second floor), and the food was as good as the atmosphere. Now, one may ask, how much to eat in such a fancy place? The answer is 9 AZN or about 12 dollars each for grilled meat (lamb and chicken) grilled potatoes, drinks, bread, and a few small side salads of cucumbers and tomatoes, pickles, and mushrooms.
Needless to say, it was a great end to the hour and a half journey. We relaxed, talked, and refreshed – good thing, we still had the hour and a half journey back (now uphill). We stopped at the fine store and bought snacks in place of supper that evening. We were going to hire a taxi to take the food, and a couple of the group back to the hotel while the rest of us walked. The driver wanted 5 AZN which is what we paid for from the city 15 KM away. We shot back 2 AZN, he said 4, we stuck with 2 and ended up carrying all our groceries back up the mountain (formerly hill). By the time we were almost to our rooms we were huffing, puffing, and I was sweating profusely as I carried my load. Bill said, “the 4 AZN sounds like a bargain now”!

On to cultural adjustments we have had to make. In Azerbaijan there is little sense of personal property. I was discussing this topic with my best conversation group, and I said this is my computer, and they just laughed. No, in Azerbaijan, anything in public is ours. If I lay out my materials for a conversation club, someone will come into the room, even a library employee, and just pick up anything, look at it, examine, put back somewhere different than where I had organized my presentation. Pens and paper are just picked up or someone will say to me “give me a pen”, “give me your pen”, and never say please or return it promptly after use. If I leave sheet of paper with writing on the top half, pieces are torn off to write down information, phone numbers, web sites, etc.
In the schools chalk and erasers are not provided. Students are asked to bring chalk. When no one has any chalk, they always turn to Mrs. Linda who keeps chalk at ready supply along with an eraser in her purse. If Linda ever forgets to take the chalk or eraser with her, and goes back to get it later – oh, well, you can guess – never there.
There is no sense of a line or queue when using the ATM or at the markets. I will wait patiently to purchase something, and a man, woman, or child will walk in front of me and start to talk to the clerk or pay for something they want to purchase. At the post office it is the same situation. People gather, push, and never consider others as they are only focused on what they need. I mentioned this at a conversation club, and the result was a discussion of the topic and the video which you can watch at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oxFNpbLAm7I
Please note the faces of those who observe people waiting for an ATM in an orderly line. The video is a group of students who went to an ATM and formed a line to demonstrate a fair and good method of using an ATM.

All in all we are always learning patience and flexibility as Peace Corps Volunteers.

Mini-Switzerland - heavy on the mini

Last week Linda and I traveled to the village of Ilisu in the region of Qax. We were just a few kilometers from the Russian border. It will be the final traveling within Azerbaijan except for our necessary excursions into Baku for Peace Corps requirements.
We met the other mature Volunteers and said our farewells, and enjoyed one last adventure together.
Leslie from Salyan spent Thursday night with us, then we left about 10:30 for Hajacabul to catch a bus for Qax. I had gone to Hajacabul that morning to find out what time the bus would leave for Qax and was told 11:00 a.m. and to be there by 10:45 a.m. We arrived via taxi to the bus stop around 10:40, and the bus to Qax arrived at 11:15 and we were off.
Traveling in Azerbaijan is always exhausting for us. It is the worry about making sure of the times and destinations with our limited language skills. The bus was very nice, 55 passenger, about 10-15 years old with working air conditioning. We stopped once for a break and made it to Qax about 4:30 p.m.
We were immediately met by a taxi driver willing to take us to Ilisu and our resort, Ulu Dag. The other Volunteers had already arrived and were in their rooms. The taxi driver drove at about twice the speed that would have been sane, and somehow we made it safe and sound.
Ilisu is called mini-Switzerland by the Lonely Planet travel book which is a bit overstated. The views were lovely. We hiked about a mile to a waterfall and were greeted by workers harvesting shale. The workers were from Georgia, and they were taking the stone for walls. The truck was to travel back down the trail and all the way to a coastal city in Georgia. They say Georgians are very optimistic people.
I will share more about Ilisu next posting, but we did have an interesting experience while hiking on Sunday. We were told to bring our passports, because of the proximity to Russia there are soldiers in the area. We started out hiking along the trail parallel to the river to visit some hot mineral baths in the area. (note: Linda and I were along for the hike only.) We had proceeded about a kilometer when we were stopped by 2 soldiers who asked to see our passports or documents. Now, Linda and I had faithfully brought our passports from Shirvan and they were safely tucked away in our hotel room. 5 of the 8 had their passports. One soldier radioed in our names, and told us to wait for the soldier in charge. Sure enough in about 10 minutes 2 more soldiers came walking up and wrote down a few names, examined documents, asked a few questions. Then they told us it was too dangerous and we must not go that way. We had seen many local people walking the trail which is why we ventured out. The resort personnel said if we were Azerbaijani, it would have been OK, but they were being protective of the Americans.
This experience was the first time we had been asked for our passports outside of the airports. It was a bit unnerving in that the soldiers looked like such young men. They were very polite and friendly, and we never feared anything, but just a little nervous. It is too close to the end of the adventure to be calling the Peace Corps security officer for help.
We are under 50 days, and have scheduled our final medical exams for the first week in October. Our dreams are filled with home, and our memories are filled with our dear Azerbaijani friends.

Visiting with another PCV couple

This week we are going to get together with the other older Volunteers in a village of Ililsu near the city of Qax. So, I am posting a little earlier in the week.

Last week during the Ramazan holiday, we visited Todd and Sarah France who are AZ7’s and serve in Kurdamir. Kurdamir is north and east of us, and about a 90-minute bus ride. Todd is 30 and played in the European NFL as a kicker. Sarah taught art for 3 years in the Las Vegas school system. They are an outstanding couple with many talents. It is always a joy to spend time with them (far right in the photo).
Kurdamir is a region with over 50 villages, and the main city has a population of 15,000. We did not see any of the soviet style apartment buildings as we have in Shirvan. The France’s have rented a home that has 3 rooms and a kitchen. It was one of the nicest refrigerators I have seen in any Peace Corps housing. They also have a washing machine (a tub with an agitator which must be hand filled and drained). We were very envious of their luxury, except for the toilet, which is basically a hole in the ground. They have a cistern and overhead water tank, which they fill by buying water from a truck. The water was clean and they have a nice system. Their water heater did not work, but during the summer the sun heats the tank sufficiently for a nice shower in the evenings.
The France’s were very kind to us and gave up their bed. Their bed is very comfortable. They have an Azerbaijan mattress on the floor and foam rubber on top of it. The mattresses in Azerbaijan are cloth stuffed with wool. During each summer the wool is removed, washed, fluffed, re-stuffed, and re-sewn. The fluffing is performed by allowing the wet wool to air dry, then a woman takes a stick and beats the stick into the wool, lifts the stick bringing a few strands of wool to the air, and dropping back onto the pile. When I am running in the summer, I often hear the whack, whack, whack of those refurbishing their mattresses.
Now, the floor is very comfortable with a mattress, and many homes with many people usually stack the mattresses during the day, and then lay on the floor at night. The beds are 2 basic types. One type is a metal frame with a small headboard, then inside the frame is a metal mesh and the mattress is placed on top of the mesh. This is very soft and a little springy. Our beds in Saray during our training were of this type. We sagged into the middle. We had 2 beds pushed together, but were different heights.
The second type of bed is a board inside of the metal frame – like sleeping on the floor, but higher. Our bed board has the thinnest layer of foam rubber I have ever encountered. We have added other layers of foam rubber and it is more comfortable.
The problem for us is that the wool mattress does not stay fluffed very long. Soon there are deep indentations of each person. We often grip the mattress on opposite sides and shake vigorously to even it out a little.
All that is to say this: The Peace Corps sets aside $225 (now $275) for each month of training and service. Then at the end of service, we are given this money as a Readjustment Allowance. A good portion of ours is going for the highest quality of bed we can purchase, and never ever take it for granted!

The bus rides to and from Kurdamir were quite eventful, but usual. The bus to Kurdamir was a large 50-passenger bus probably built in the 1960’s. It was well worn, and soon after we began there was a loud, very loud thumping noise at the rear of the bus. Linda had observed that the driver and helper had been working on one of the underneath baggage areas when we boarded. Evidently, the repair did not hold, and the door was flapping. The sound was like someone slamming a metal door as hard as they could every 5 seconds. We stopped a couple of times, and finally the noise subsided. When we first heard the flapping we thought we had a flat tire because of the vibration, but that was just normal shimmy of unbalanced tires.
Our return home was on the bus that runs from Shamakha to Shirvan each day. I have included the photo of our Salyan bus again. The Shamakha bus is not quite as physically sound as that bus. I stood the whole 2 hours plus because we were very crowded, and women always get first priority for seating. I stood next to Linda behind the driver. When we stopped, an assistant would uncover the engine compartment, which was to the right of the driver. He would add water to the radiator while the engine was running. He added 10 liters during the 2-hour trip. It was over 2 hours because of all the stops we made letting off and picking up passengers for the villages between Kurdamir and Shirvan. However, the worst part of the trip was the fumes. The weather has moderated, and our return day was cool, or I’d be dead.

A little about bread

This is the last time we will be remembering the September 11, 2001 tragedy while in Azerbaijan. Linda and I, as most Americans alive at that time, remember exactly where we were and what we were doing when we first watched the unfolding of the events of that dreadful day. I recall the feelings after 9/11 when everyone was patriotic, kind, courteous, and caring. That period lasted far too briefly and then we went to war. Little did we realize that 9 years later we would be living in a Muslim country albeit very secular. Our Muslim friends share our pain and during a conversation club in Kurdamir this week, a young man looked us in the eyes and with great emotion said, “I am sorry that so many Americans died on September 11.”

This week the library was closed on Thursday and Friday for the end of Ramadan holiday. It is celebrated by visiting with those who have had family members die in the past year, and visiting with family. One of the foods of Ramadan is Hava, which is in the first photo. It is very simple, butter is heated and flour and sugar are fried until the brown color. Linda and I do not care for the taste, but deeply appreciate our two neighbors bringing us dishes of Hava yesterday and today.
On Monday and Tuesday this week we had media training at the IREX Media Center. Lunch was served for all those who participated. There were about 20 young adults and each day we were provided with Lula Kebabs for lunch. The kebab is a mutton sausage cooked over an open flame, then cilantro and onions are added and all is rolled in a lavash, which is a flour tortilla. The drink served is called Iran – which is buttermilk. The photos try to illustrate.
The final photo is of women making lavash. One will prepare and cook the dough, while another rolls it flat before the cooking. It takes a lot of practice and skill to make lavash quickly.

The main stable of life here is bread. The common loaf of bread is round and about 10 inches in diameter. The loaf cost 25 qepek (30 cents). The price has varied between 20 and 30 qepek in our time of service. Loaves can be purchased in every market, out of boxes on a corner, or at the isti chorek (hot bread) store. From the bakery (isti chorek) the bread is hand stacked and carried by the armful out to a vehicle either a small truck with a shell or an automobile trunk, back seat, front seat, wherever there is room. The bread is then placed in rows in boxes. I would estimate the age of these boxes at about 18 months, and they are used again and again. The bread is then taken to individual sellers and hand carried into the selling area. Placed in boxes with blankets to cover. I do not enquire as to the laundering practices of these blankets, but I would guess annually. Again the bread is placed in rows by hand, customers then come in and search through the box, handle a few loaves and select the ones they prefer. If we buy bread at the market, there is no way to estimate the number of hands, which have touched each loaf.
Linda and I buy very little of the round bread. It is difficult to toast, and we like the traditional slices for sandwiches. The purchased bread is a little chewy, but if warm, can be okay. When visiting in a home we can tell immediately if a woman bakes her own bread by the texture.
We have a market, which has someone prepare bread in what we would call a traditional loaf, and I pay 30 qepek for it. When it is fresh, it is great for our lunchtime sandwiches. Linda says all bread is good if you put peanut butter on it.
There are also many buns sold in the markets, and they are all very sweet. We have purchased and tried to use for sandwiches and hamburger buns, but the taste is just too sweet. They are primarily snack breads.
A week ago, we cooked our own hamburger buns, and I must say they were wonderful!
During the winter and spring months we have been able to purchase a whole grain bread, and if fresh is very good. I found a rye like bread, but only have seen it occasionally.
I think we sometimes dream about those homemade rolls and crescent rolls that are brought to basket dinners in Missouri – our friends, please make note.

Water, water everywhere, but our house

With the time left we will blog about our daily life and Azerbaijan culture. The pictures are from the International Museum Day on May 16, 2009 with the traditional Azerbaijan dress and musical instruments.
The name of the round drum is galval and the stringed instrument is a tar. The children were performing a traditional dance.

It is still very hot here with the temperature in the 90’s. We prepare a lot of ice each day because we cannot buy it anywhere. Azerbaijanis drink cool, but not ice cold drinks. There are many ice cream bars available, but you must eat quickly before they melt.
The washing of the carpets is done in hot weather. During the winter the carpets are beaten. Since we are nearing the end of summer, any water day there are many women washing their carpets outdoors. Our neighbors take the carpets and lay them outside on the sides of the streets, wet them, poor laundry detergent, on hands and knees scrub with a brush, then rinse and squeegee with a flat wooden piece at the end of a handle, repeating the rinsing and squeegee several times. The water comes from a hose and a lot of water runs down the street and into the courtyard. The wet carpets are then hung to dry on the clothes lines if sturdy or on the benches and playground equipment in the courtyard. Washing and drying the carpets take precedence over any other use of the courtyard. Every water day the past two weeks we see dozens of carpet washings while we walk.
With my deepest apologies to the 46% of the households in the world without running water (National Geographic, April, 2010) we think it is difficult having water every other day. In extremely hot or cold days we may only get a few hours of water on a water day. Because of where our apartment is situated and with reduced water pressure, our neighbors or other buildings may have water, and we do not. We keep the faucet on and wait, sometimes for small trickles, and sometimes a nice flow of water. This is to make a point. When we do not have water I envy those with water tanks, or those who are getting water when we are not. Then when we do not have water and I observe waste, I become resentful. This experience has made me realize what the third world must feel when they see abundance and even waste in developed countries.

Today is a market day for us. We generally buy something at a market daily due to lack of storage and freezer space. We once bought some unripe peaches, but stored them in the refrigerator because the dark and warmth helped them ripen. Anyway, it made us recall a woman named Lillian Garland who was in her eighties and would walk to the local grocery store about 2 blocks away almost every day. She would only buy what she could carry. Life is like that here in Shirvan. People buy what they can carry, and if they purchase more than that, a taxi is needed at a cost of 1 AZN ($1.25).
After visiting the United States my counterpart asked me why there were no small markets? Now the inventory of a small general market here is about like a 7/11 with better prices and some bulk items such as flour, cookies, and candy. They are important because of the carrying factor. We try to support a couple of local markets, and a larger “super market” in the bazaar. The super market has better prices, the prices are marked, a little variety, a shopping basket, I get to pick the items off the shelf, and a computer checkout.
No matter whether we buy from a small market or the super market, or anywhere, our items are placed in plastic bags. (I keep remembering seeing the Wal-mart and Hy-Vee plastic bags caught in the trees along our street in Kansas City.) These bags are very important! We use them to cover and store our leftovers, carry out our daily trash, and use to transport any items we need to take to work. The really nice plastic bags that are not transparent are used for lunch boxes, toolboxes, and suitcases.
Today we purchased a litter of milk, 30 eggs, flour, peaches, tangerines, butter and bread. We have enough bags for a day or so!
Such is a portion of our daily experience.

The Summer Is Almost Over

The first picture is of the group of AZ6 Volunteers who were then not even Trainees. We were checking in at JFK airport in New York, September 23, 2008. Little could we imagine all that we would do in the next 2 years.
The second photo is our celebrating being in country 1 year, and thinking how much we had already experienced.
The third is of a fire near the Central Library. A small shop which sold household items including small electronic appliances had an electrical fire which destroyed most of its inventory.
The fourth is the entrance of the Shirvan Humanitarian and Economic College. The college campus is the building in the background and a courtyard which includes a football (soccer) field and exercise bars. It is similar to a community college or trade school in the United States.
Finally, it is our Country Director, Meredith Dalton and us. It is always an honor and an excitement when the Country Director visits on site. Meredith has an awesome responsibility for the over 100 PCVs and staff serving in Azerbaijan. The Americans on staff are giving of themselves to the Peace Corps, and their country. All are former Peace Corps Volunteers who have later become employed by the Peace Corps.
From Linda:
This week was the end of Courtyard English Club for elementary-aged boys and girls who live in our apartment complex (5 large Soviet-built apt. buildings). Usually there would average 12 boys on Tuesdays and Thursdays and 16 girls on Mondays and Wednesdays. I had no blackboard, white board, desks, walls, maps, etc. that a classroom usually has. All my materials I carried in a box. The club lasted for 1 hour each day for the months of July and August. Some children had had a little English in school but most were non-English speaking. The children would gather before I got there and were glad to see me. Often students that did not have club that particular day would stand outside the open little shelter and listen to the lessons. Children in Azerbaijan have nothing to do during the summers. Unlike in America, Azeri children seldom travel and there are no camps, summer school or sports for children during the summer. On the last day I gave each student a pencil (sent from America) and a piece of candy. They were very sorry that the club was finished.
The parents and adults have also been very appreciative that I will do English Club and not charge any money. Often the parents, grandparents or older siblings would sit or stand around so they could hear what we were doing. Most adults in the apartment complex smile and speak to me when I go out. Several have thanked me for the English Club. I now hear English words and phrases every day in our courtyard. I hope that some day there will be children who remember the American teacher that came to Azerbaijan and taught them beginning English.

From Denney:
We will have about a dozen more blog postings including this one. If there is anything subject you would like us to share our thoughts or experiences, please just add it in a comment, and we will post.

We are working with our Power of Attorney, Lyle and LaVerna Baker on our coming home. Thinking about places to live and needs such as a car. One of the goals we have set is to lose some weight in the next 10 weeks. Our friends and fellow Volunteers, Bill and Dorothy, had to return to the United States for 4 weeks in July to care for family. Bill reported that in the 4 weeks he quickly gained 7 pounds. We realize that we will eat much and not always healthy foods when we first return – oh how good that first meat lovers pizza will be!

We have begun counting the days

The photos are of random thoughts. We have about 80 days until we board a plane destined to the United States. In between our preparations and work we reflect on people and places in Azerbaijan or on our life when we return.
The first photo is of our neighbor girls when they brought to me a birthday cake. We will certainly miss the fine neighbors and will never forget them. As we reflect on the many people who have had us in their homes as in the second photo.
No matter what country, the children are always lovely, but I don’t know why the child is so scared in the fourth picture.
Finally, there is a repeat picture of the bus that goes from Shirvan to Salyan. How far we have come in these 23 months. That bus was so significant because it was our first journey outside our site community all by ourselves. We were really traveling in Azerbaijan. Now, we have been from one end to the other, north to south, east to west, and 2 other countries, Georgia and Turkey. I will say again, do not be deceived the bus is not nearly as nice on the inside as it is on the outside!

This week my counterpart, Alma, posted a video on Youtube. IREX (Information and Research Exchange) funded by USAID has training concerning using Youtube, Facebook, and other such sites as potential means of publishing the news and events of a local area. It is a great use more than just funny videos. Alma has scheduled several presentations in the library on Citizenship Journalism. So, this week she said what Linda does in the courtyard is news for our community. Visit below and comment!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GJAQTdFHkl4

We are in the midst of Ramadan (Ramazan) and below is information provided by our Language and Culture Coordinator concerning Ramazan.
Ramadan, (Ramazan), the Holy holiday (this year it will begin on the 10th or 11th of August)
Millions of Muslims across the world begin fasting during the Muslim holy month of Ramadan. In Azerbaijan, you will note that not everyone fasts and prays during Ramadan. More religious families will fast, while others will not. Some Azerbaijanis will join in on the end of Ramadan celebrations, in order to spend time with family and friends.

Ramadan was the month in which the first verses of the Qur’an were claimed to have been revealed to the Prophet Muhammad. The Prophet (Peace be upon him) fasted during this month and directed his followers to do the same. Ramadan is the Islamic month of fasting, in which participating Muslims refrain from eating, drinking, smoking, and sexual relations from dawn until sunset. (Exceptions are made for young children, those who are sick, pregnant or traveling). Fasting is meant to teach the Muslim patience, modesty and spirituality. Ramadan is a time for Muslims to fast for the sake of God and to offer more prayer than usual. Muslims concentrate on their faith and spend less time on the concerns of their everyday lives; it is time of worship and contemplation.

With respect to the solar calendar, the dates of Ramadan vary, moving forward about ten days each year. Fasting starts in Ramadan from the day when new moon is seen and continues 29- 30 days. Koran says: “Eat and drink till it gets light.” At the end of the day the fast is broken with prayer and a meal called iftar, usually each day ends with feasts and visits to friends and family.

Since it is a festival of giving and sharing, Muslims prepare special foods and buy gifts for their family and friends and for giving to the poor and needy who cannot afford it; this can involve buying new clothes, shoes and other items of need. There is also a social aspect involved the preparing of special foods and inviting people for the iftar meal.

What we have observed here in our community is that not many people fast. If you are young, old, sick, working, pregnant, or at risk, the Qur’an states you are excused from fasting. In fact the only difference we see during Ramazan is that there is an increase in begging much like our charitable giving during the Christmas and Thanksgiving holidays.