Happy Thanksgiving from Azerbaijan

We wish everyone a Happy Thanksgiving. We hope you are all with family and friends.
The second in command at the U.S. Embassy in Baku, Don Lu, opened his home to the AZ6 Volunteers for a Thanksgiving dinner on Saturday, November 21. There were 50 of 55 Volunteers attending. Don Lu is a RPCV who served in his 20’s. He is very impressive and has helped us to understand Azerbaijan’s current political situation.
The second photo is of the PCV shoes left at the door.
The Third photo is of Thanksgiving table and you might recognize mashed potatoes and stove top stuffing. The fourth photo is of Denney carving the turkey (see description below). Finally, there is a picture of Leslie Schoolfield, an AZ6 in Salyan, Denney and Linda celebrating Thanksgiving in Azerbaijan.

It has been a full week with being in Baku last Saturday for the Thanksgiving dinner hosted by Don Lu. There was a lot of delicious turkey and soft drinks provided by the Embassy. The AZ6 Volunteers each brought a dish. There were lots of apple dishes, potatoes, pasta, salads, pumpkin pies, and even one pecan pie. The food was wonderful, and the housing for U.S. officials is really fantastic.
After the dinner all the Volunteers had a talent show (more next week with pictures). Then we were hosted by Americans living and working Baku. Linda and I were hosted by Peter and Stephanie Stasser. Peter is with the Department of Justice and works with prosecutors helping with procedures and techniques. They have 2 college age children. Stephanie’s father was a university professor in Thailand. Peter was a prosecutor in New Orleans and has served overseas in Malawi, Georgia, Philippines, and now Azerbaijan. They will be leaving Azerbaijan in the next 6 months for a new assignment. They were very kind to us. Peter drove us to church on Sunday. They have a lovely home, and Stephanie is quite an artist. We had wonderful conversations with them. It was a fantastic break.
It is interesting though that boredom can be a problem for everyone serving overseas. When we returned to the Stasser’s home they were watching a DVD of season 3 of the Beverly Hillbillies.

We celebrated Thanksgiving in the traditional manner. We had a turkey, it is small and here in Azerbaijan it is called a chicken. Linda put together wonderful green beans, mashed potatoes. We were going to have a wonderful dessert, but the electricity went off about 2:00 p.m. and was off until 5:30. So, you might note in the pictures above, we celebrated by candle light.
On Friday we will travel to Barda to spend time with our friends Bill and Dorothy.

When there is a significant American holiday such as Thanksgiving or Christmas, Volunteers do not work. Then Friday, Saturday, Sunday, and Monday (November 27-30) has been declared non-work days by the Milli Mejlis (Parliament). The non-work days are to mark Qurban. Qurban means sacrifice and is a significant remembrance in the Muslim world. It is a time when sheep are slaughtered as a sacrifice and those who are able will give meat to the poor. Families may go together and slaughter one sheep. The remembrance is of Abraham’s going to sacrifice his son Ishmael, but God provides a lamb instead. The term slaughter is not used, but instead “cut” indicating how the lamb is to be killed. The lamb is pointed towards Mecca, a prayer is said, then the throat is cut. After the lamb has bled to death, the head and the legs at the knee are removed. Then the meat is butchered in the customary proportions.

Any time during a Muslim holy day there is an emphasis on charitable giving, similar to our providing meals during Thanksgiving and Christmas.

We wish for you the very best, and thank you always for your support. My brother John and his wife Kim called us Thanksgiving morning here. It was so good to hear their voices, and we begin to look forward to being reunited. A special thank you to all those who sent Linda a birthday card. The church in Archie was especially well represented. Linda and I are faithful to send our birthday offerings to the Missouri Baptist Children's Home through Hopewell Baptist Church.

On a sadder note, the Peace has lost its fourth Volunteer this year due to death. It was a 23 year old young woman, graduate of Stanford, serving in Monaco and died following an illness. For more information on the Peace Corps go to www.peacecorps.gov

AZ7 a Great Group

Pictured above are (left to right) Clarissa, Linda, and Jade. They are a part of the AZ7 Volunteers. They will be sworn in and deployed to their sites on December 10. Overall it is a very outstanding group.

We wrote about Connie and Sarah who were part of the original 61 AZ7. AZ7 training began in Philadelphia as did ours. They lost one person there who decided they could not go. After arriving in Azerbaijan they lost a second person due to health reasons, an allergic reaction to the pollution. Connie will be going to Qazax in the far northwest corner of Azerbaijan, and Sarah to Xachmaz which is in the north east corner.

Now for an even more interesting part of the story. While in Philadelphia there were 2 other countries staging at the same time. One of them was Turkmenistan. On the morning they were to leave, the Director of Central Asia and Eastern Europe region of the Peace Corps came to tell them that Turkmenistan had decided that it would not host new volunteers in 2009 and would wait until 2010 (after 17 years of continually receiving of volunteers). The group was devastated to say the least. One couple was like us and had sold their home. The Peace Corps did everything they could. They returned the group to their homes and said they would try to place them as quickly as possible, but it could be months.

Azerbaijan Peace Corps expanded its AZ7 group to include 7 more for the program of Teaching English as a Foreign Language (TEFL). They joined the 9 week training - two weeks late. They have been working very hard to catch up with the cultural and language training. They missed the Peace Corps Volunteer site visits. To help with their training the 7 went to 5 sites nearest to Baku. That is how we got to meet and spend time with Clarissa and Jade.

Clarissa is a Chinese American (as she has to repeatedly explain to the Azerbaijanis that she meets). Her grandfather still lives in Hon Kong, her brother in Hawaii, and her parents in Berkley, California. She loves the Berkley area. She had researched and planned on serving in the Peace Corps for several years. She is very dedicated and wants to share herself with the people of Azerbaijan.

Jade's grandfather immigrated to the United States in 1950 from Tehran, Iran. Jade is from the Seattle area and had wanted to serve in the Peace Corps since she entered the University. Jade fits right into the Azerbaijani appearance.

We were very impressed with their dedication and desire to be good volunteers - consequently they will be great volunteers. Clarissa is going to Neftchala, and Jade to Masalli which are in the southern sector of Azerbaijan, and only a couple of hours from us. We hope to be able to keep in contact with them during next year.

The ethnicity of the AZ7s is enhanced by Sharif Hussanein who is one of the 7 from the Turkmenistan group. He was born in the Sudan, escaped the genocides with his older brother. He ended up through many circumstances in Florida, and is a graduate of Florida State University, and a U.S. citizen. He wants to serve the United States through the Peace Corps. He arrived in Azerbaijan and was told by the host family that they wanted a real American and he could not stay with them. The Peace Corps immediately found alternative housing for him. His attitude is always positive. Children at the school where he trains will lick their fingers and rub his skin, and he just smiles. Linda met him during one of her presentations and was captivated by his special qualities.

We try to explain to our co-workers here in Azerbaijan, that these are really more American than we. They represent the very best of our nation - God Bless the U.S.A.

Saturday, November 21 we will travel to Baku and be housed by an American family working in Azerbaijan and living in Baku. In the afternoon 55 AZ6 volunteers will go to the home of Don Lou who is with the Embassy staff in Baku. Don Lou is a RPCV and has great affection for the volunteers.

One other note: Robert Kelsay commented that Linda was wearing an Oregon Ducks tee-shirt in one of the photos. When volunteers go home, they generally leave as much as they can in Azerbaijan for volunteers and Azerbaijanis. Linda inherited the shirt from an AZ5 - she is still a Baylor Bear, Kansas Jayhawk, and Central Missouri Mule through and through.

Half-way through Training and Service

Pictures: This week I am reminiscing a little. The first picture is of Thanksgiving 2008 in the village of Saray with 3 Trainee clusters represented. We gathered for Thanksgiving pot luck dinner and also to surprise Linda on her birthday. The sign says “Your 60 years life – celebrate/congratulations.”
The third picture was taken at a cultural event during our training. We visited the ancient site of Gobustan, and here are most of the older group eating lunch together. The 3 on the far right have all Early Terminated, ET, due to family and adjustment issues.
The fourth picture is of Denney looking into a “Mud Volcano”. These are unique to the area and are a result of gas erupting through the mud. They are not hot, but can be a little dangerous in that this year one of the AZ7’s sunk down to his belly in mud when the crust broke.
Finally is one of my favorite pictures of Linda at Sheki.

Linda and I have passed the half-way point in our service and training. On December 10 we will mark the half-way point in our service as Volunteers, and will have less than one year remaining. The countdown of our return will begin. So, the subject of this blog is homesickness.

I read the blogs of other Volunteers and Trainees in Azerbaijan when I have time. Homesickness is common to all of us. Everyone has ways of handling the being separated from family and American culture. Serving in the Peace Corps is far different now than even 5 years ago, much less 10, 20, 30, or 50. Through cell phones, television and the internet we keep up with news and are in contact with family and friends on a regular basis. It is this contact that helps the most. Even short emails are always appreciated.
This week we were fortunate to have two phone calls. First, the members of Hopewell Baptist Church had a “Call Linda and Denney Fellowship.” There was a potluck supper and then they called 8:15 p.m. CST which was 6:15 a.m. for us. We were expecting the call and had both been up since 5:00 in anticipation. We had speakerphones on both ends of the call which made it very nice. It was a joy to hear familiar voices. Something like that picks up the spirits.
On Friday night (CST) Andrew called us and we spoke for about 30 minutes. He had had a stressful day, but being able to speak with him helped to make us feel we are still a viable part of his life. He said he would call again on Thanksgiving.
In addition to the telephone calls, we also receive cards and letters. Three weeks or so is the average delivery time. These are nice because they can be read over and over. I also use the cards for Conversation Clubs to discuss the pictures and such.
Many of you have been so instrumental in sending us packages. I know I will leave someone out so I will not list everyone, but some of the highlights have been: spices from many people (I think my sister buys a whole shelf and sends it), For all of you who have sent special foods like peanut butter, French or Italian roast coffee, crackers, cheeses, oatmeal, hot chocolate mixes, Kool-Aid, Crystal Lite, soups and soup mixes, candy, and everything else – too much to mention. These items make life so much more bearable. All the Volunteers comment how these items help overcome the homesickness for American culture.
We are very fortunate to have a reliable mail system. Many Volunteers over the world are not as fortunate. We have timely and safe delivery. We have only lost a couple of items. One electronic package did not arrive at all. Another package was missing a roll of tape after having come open during transit. We also lost one package of Crystal Lite – told you it was valuable.
We offer special thanks to all of you who helped in emergencies with items like makeup, hairspray, and French Press coffee maker.
Last year Billie and Daryl Limpus sent us a CD of the 1985 Christmas program at FBC Archie. There were our sons, and friends’ children singing and performing. It was so emotional and touching.
So, basically, every contact from the U.S.A. is deeply appreciated and helps manage the homesickness.

We miss family and friends most at the holidays, birthdays, and special occasions. The American culture is different. When we are reading books and the characters go to their favorite Pizza place, restaurant, play, or concert, then it hits. When Linda is preparing meals, we realize how much we miss prepared foods. Diet drinks are not found easily, an occasional Coke or Pepsi Light can be purchased. The sugar free drinks from the U.S. are something we did not realize how much we would miss them.

Some volunteers have made trips back to the United States and others have had family visit them here. I believe for us a trip to the United States would not help because I doubt I could get back on the plane to return to Azerbaijan. Chris Gilmore is hoping to come visit us next year, and we are still hoping one or both of our sons could come.

In December and early January we will be getting our physicals and dental examinations, and then late January or early February will be our Mid-service Conference. Then the countdown to our return will begin, and next summer in earnest.

All total out of the 61 we began with there is now 55. There have been 3 younger and 3 older volunteers who Early Terminated. To Early Terminate is respected as the best choice for those individuals at that time. We respect and appreciate anyone who has made the Peace Corps a choice and every minute of service is important. Thank you again for helping make this possible for us through your contacts, support, friendship, love, prayers, and thoughts!

Linda Continues to Assist with Training

Pictures: The first is of Linda’s counterpart Metanet (right) and her sister. As they traveled to Jeyranbatan, Linda and Metanet stopped in Baku at Metanet’s sister’s apartment for lunch. Linda felt it was a great honor to be invited and that Metanet wants Linda to meet her entire family.
This year is the “Year of the Child”, “Ushaq Ili”, and a program was presented in the Library. The Library Director welcomes everyone to the program. The program consisted of readings, drama, activities, and awards.

Linda was busy again this week. She and her counterpart traveled to the village of Jeyranbatan. They presented two sessions on working with a counterpart in Azerbaijan schools. Linda has established a very good relationship with her counterpart, and has changed her secondary counterpart for this school year. Linda provided excellent realistic experiences and techniques.
When we made our first visit to Shirvan last year Linda took pictures of all the English language teachers. Then at Christmas time Linda made cards for each teacher with a copy of the picture on it. Linda explained the tradition of Christmas cards while presenting a photo to each teacher. Photos are treasured here and deeply appreciated.
Linda established a monthly meeting with the Director of the school to make sure he was aware of everything she was doing. Her reports to the Director provide an opportunity to establish trust and support for her work here. It seems like obvious techniques, but the majority of TEFL volunteers do not have teaching experience before coming to the Peace Corps.
Counterparts are one of the keys to a successful Peace Corps experience. A good counterpart makes the difficulties in language and culture easier to overcome. A bad counterpart or a bad relationship with a good counterpart can increase the level of the barriers. Linda’s counterpart helps her with the meetings with the Director, Conversation Clubs, shopping, and friendship.
Linda and Metanet presented and answered many excellent questions from the Trainees. There is a large group this year and were divided into 2 groups. The first group were experienced teachers and the second group had no teaching experience. The first group responded exceptionally well, were tuned in and had some of those excellent questions. The second group was less disciplined and took awhile to get onboard, but in the end responded with good questions.
Like having any large group of people, there are those who understand and behave appropriately. Appropriate dress for the teacher is of utmost importance in Azerbaijan. People are first judged upon their appearance. After trust and confidence is built, then more casual dress may be more acceptable, or maybe not. Appropriate attire demonstrates respect for the culture in which we live. It seems simple, but no matter how many times it is repeated, some Volunteers may not understand its importance.

When Linda returned to her classroom on Thursday, after almost 2 weeks absence due to training future Volunteers, she received a standing ovation from class 9C. It warmed Linda’s heart! The children and staff here truly appreciate Mrs. Linda. Every week there seems to be something like the ovation that gives us inspiration.

For me, this week had me contemplating whether or not one could die from an overdose of Pepto Bismal. I missed three days at the library and when Linda returned on Tuesday evening was more of a burden to her than a helpmate. I am slowly gaining my strength back, and completed a day of work on Friday. Some days the most inspirational events are a bowl of soup and Sprite.