Saturday, August 1, 2009

More about Georgia

















































One of the sights we saw was a cave city, Uplistsikhe, just outside of Gori, Georgia. The history of the cave city begins centuries before Christ, and population ceased after the Mongols invaded. The estimated population was 20,000. Only a portion is open to tourist. We entered the Cave City through a 41 meter tunnel which would have been used as a secret escape tunnel during a siege.
A pagan sacrifice site where the throat of the animal was cut or head removed and the blood would flow into a holding area. Like any city there was the best neighborhood where the wealthy lived with high ceilings and large doors. Linda is standing in front of the drug store. The cubbies contained traces of medicinal remains and behind was the “laboratory”.
We could still see the roads and layout of the city. Not pictured, but along what would have been a main thoroughfare was one of three jails uncovered. The jails were basically deep holes and people would pass by and look into the holes to see who had been incarcerated. Evidently public humiliation was very much a part of the punishment.

This information comes from The Lonely Planet:
Uplistsikhe, this cave town is one of the oldest places of settlement in the Caucasus. It was founded in the late Bronze Age, around 1000 B.C. but developed mainly from the 6th to 1st centuries B.C. Before Georgia’s conversion to Christianity this was a special site for pagan rituals. When the Arabs occupied Tbilisi, Uplistsikhe became the residence of Georgian kings.
At its peak in the early Middle Ages, the city had a population of 20,000 spread over an area of 9.5 hectares. Now only the 4 hectare remains of the inner city are visible.
At the top of the hill is the three-church basilica which was built 9th to 10th century.


When we first journeyed into Georgia we could see a difference in the quality of the roads. Of course we did not have the opportunity to travel into many rural areas, but the infrastructure is better in Georgia than Azerbaijan. The agriculture was more developed and the climate was not nearly as arid as around Shirvan.
Georgia claims to be the home of the origin of the grape. Their claim is that the oldest grape seeds ever found were in Georgia. The eastern part of the country is abundant with vineyards and the country is known for its wine.
Our guide was quite proud to tell us that of all the former Soviet Socialists Republics Georgia has the least corruption. Lessening corruption has been a major goal of the Georgian government. Our guide said that if any policeman was caught trying to extort a bribe they were dismissed. Corruption is a way of life in former SSR. Jobs must be purchased or are awarded through nepotism, entrance into a university may be earned or bought, grades may be earned or bought. The corruption within the educational systems causes inferior doctors, nurses, teachers and professionals.
The Georgian educational system is in the early stages of converting from the Soviet model to a more American model. There has been a year added to the mandatory attendance (interestingly our guide opposed and thought 11 years was enough). It is the methods that are also undergoing a change. In Azerbaijan there is still the Soviet model of rote memorization. One of the goals for Peace Corps Volunteers is to introduce as many interactive methods and techniques as possible.
Georgia is also a very religious country. It is much more religious than Azerbaijan. The population is 80% Orthodox. There is freedom of religion. There are religious symbols everywhere and more churches than one can count. The general public prides itself on adhering and practicing its faith. However, many of their acts are almost like superstitions. There are many large metal crosses constructed in the hills and when a person drives by a cross it is to help them arrive safely. We think the drivers should slow down, and that would help God keep everyone safer.
When we toured a church if it was eighteenth century or later – it is modern. Churches are historical if they are pre ninth century. The women cover their heads and the Orthodox churches have many icons, no pews or chairs, and the services last from 2 to 3 hours.

Now, here is a little news from this week. Linda began a “Courtyard Conversation Club” on Thursday. We have 5 apartment buildings which surround a small park area. At night it is a hub of activity. Because of the heat most of the children and young adults sleep during the afternoon, and will walk around town and play in the parks until 1:00 a.m. Or so we’ve been told – Linda and I rarely stay up past midnight (10:30 really). Linda posted signs and went building to building telling people of her plans. Thursday morning arrived and the hour to begin was 10:00. Linda put out her banner (a Mickey Mouse sheet) on our clothes line and proceeded to the courtyard. There were 2 girls who would not approach her until she coaxed them. She began with 2 more joining, and a good start with 4. BUT, before the hour was over she had 26 children, 3 teenagers, and 4 mothers all participating. We had 2 women knock on our door at 10:00 p.m. asking when was the next session. Linda will be conducting her courtyard activities on Tuesdays and Thursdays.

We are preparing to say goodbye to the AZ5 Volunteers who will be returning to the United States in September. We are also anxious to welcome the AZ7 Trainees who will become the AZ7 Volunteers. The AZ7 are to arrive the last of September. After the AZ5’s leave, we will be the veterans.




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