January 20, 1990 is a day of great importance in Azerbaijan. The events of that day are remembered each year just as September 11, 2001 are recalled in the United States each. In Azerbaijan Iyirmi Yanvar are special words. The people of Azerbaijan were expressing the desire to be a republic and break away from the Soviet Union. To make an example of Azerbaijan, the Soviets sent military to Baku the capital and warned everyone to stay off the streets. Many people were going about their daily tasks when the tanks began firing and rolling over people in the streets. 163 men, women, and children were killed. These 163 are memorialized in a park, Martyrs Lane, in Baku. Their images are engraved on head stones in the midst of a park. The first two images along the lane are of a couple just 23 years old, recently married. He was killed. She was so devistated by his death, she later killed herself on June 30, 1990, and thus creating "Lovers Day" on June 30. Images of men in the early 30’s, women in their 20’s, and children are haunting visions of the cost of freedom. Some of the head stones have no image because the bodies were so mutilated that identification was impossible. For more information Google, "January 20 Azerbaijan"
Each year, it is a solemn day, not a holiday, but a day of mourning. No one goes to work, and there are memorial events throughout the country. People began arriving at the Memorial pictured above before 10:00 a.m. Linda attended the ceremonies with her fellow school staff. Students from her school gave dramatic readings during the program, and she was on the front row. I attended by myself and was among the crowd of 2,000. Linda arrived at 10:00 a.m. and I at 11:00. The program began around 11:30 with speeches from various dignitaries. Everyone in the crowd was standing. One of the dignitaries passed out from standing so long. The program itself lasted about an hour followed by the placing of flowers at the memorial. First, groups presented the large wreaths of red carnations, then a procession of individuals with red carnations. Linda and I each laid 2 carnations at the memorial.
Even though we could not understand much of what was said. The emotions displayed and especially the tears that flowed during the prayer moved us. We feel very much a part of the country and its history during times like this.
On a brighter note, there is the picture of the local college. Colleges in Azerbaijan would be like community colleges and technical schools in the United States. The best students attend universities. But, if a student demonstrates the ability at a college they may go on to a university. The large building behind the sign is the college.
Linda and I have both attended sessions of English courses to dialog with the students and speak about the United States. The method of teaching is as in the public schools patterned after the old Soviet method of recitation. Consequently, many of the English majors cannot actually speak or converse in English.
The students are a delight of enthusiasm to us. Many attend my conversation clubs at the Central Library. I was invited to a birthday celebration in the Buffet, closest thing to the student union they have. There was cake and tea served. There were 2 people celebrating their 21st and 19th birthday anniversary.
There are no dormitories. The students who are not from Shirvan must find their own housing. So, like in the US, many of the cheaper apartments are shared by the students. We thought you would enjoy their bright young faces.
While in Saray during training, Linda tutored a university student, Yugona, in English and Yogona tutored Linda in Azerbaijani. Yugona has always expressed a great affection for Linda. Yugona’s sister-in-law, Elvira, lives in Shirvan. While visiting in Shirvan Yugona and her family invited us to her relatives home for a meal. It was a lot of wonderful food, good conversation (yes, I was able to speak a little Azerbaijani, enough to talk about the Peace Corps and common matters), and the highlight of playing backgammon with Yugona’s father.
The picture is of Yugona’s father, his grandson and Linda. It is just a wonderful picture. The world over everyone loves the children, grandchildren even more, and people want to be friends.