Linda Gets on a Bus to Salyan

This past week has been the celebration of Novruz, the new year for the earth. It is the beginning of Spring when the plants turn green and life is renewed. Old mistakes are forgotten, and new opportunities are seized. Part of the celebration in Shirvan is the planting of flowers, and we wanted to share the photos with everyone.

Certainly one of aspects of life in the United States that we miss is the freedom and independence that an automobile brings. We are at the mercy of public transportation and it has brought us to a new appreciation for all those dependent on public transportation in the United States. The buses here do not run on schedules, but at the descretion of the driver who wants a full bus. Someone pays the right to run a route and then keeps any income - so the more full and more people the more lucrative. We find it very uncomfortable, but for us it is only inconvenient. Linda recently went to Salyan to visit another PCV. Linda was on the bus awaiting departure when an elderly heavy woman tried to get on the bus. As hard as she could try to step up, she could not, and finally put her knee on the step and literally crawled up the steps of the bus. Her stop? She stopped at the cemetary on the outskirts of one of the villages to visit the graves of family during the holiday.

Often the older women in Azerbaijan are very heavy. It is due to a lifestyle of no exercise, poor diet, and economy. To eat healthy foods is very expensive in all cultures and countries.

On the good news/bad news genre, we have downloaded SKYPE software and have used it to make calls to the United States for only 2 cents a minute. The bad news is that at times our internet connection which is dial up is insuffecient to carry the voice satisfactorily. When I am at the library I will be able to use it more successfully, but with the 10 hour difference in time to the central time zone, not very realistic. If you have used SKYPE and have any advice for us, let us know.

Now, good news/good news! The Peace Corps has three goals and the third goal is for Volunteers to share with people in the United States about the cultures in which we live. Two weeks ago, we received a wonderful package and letter from Richard and Gloria Bray. Gloria wrote, about watching the opening ceremonies at the Winter Olympics. She noted with excitement the entrance of the 2 Azerbaijan athletes. She wrote that many more people now know where Azerbaijan is and about its culture because of our blog and letters. That lifted our spirits immeasurably as we realized that we are fulfilling that third goal. Thank all of you for your caring.

The other good news is that in Afghanistan there have been 3,500 laptop computers distributed to students through One Laptop Per Child (OLPC, www.laptop.org). We firmly believe that the defeat of terrorism is dependent upon the education of young people, especially girls. The making of women second class citizens is wrong wherever in the world. (Note: women in Azerbaijan had the right to vote before the women of the United States.) You can find more information at the website listed above.

My mistake - last week I said that due to Daylight Savings Time we were 11 hours ahead - that should have been 9 hours, and after Sunday we will be back to 10 hours difference.

This and That - Happy Novruz - Bayraminiz Mubarek

Pictures: We attended a program at School Number 10 which honored the poet Nizami, and the first picture is of the poet (born 1141). He wrote about 7 beautiful women from 7 different countries represented by their costumes. During the program each of the 7 beautiful girls performed a national dance. The boys liked most the Arabian beauty and her belly dance. Cell phones came out and videos and pictures were taken a plenty.

There are 2 national foods. The brown sweet is called hava. Hava is prepared by frying floor in butter and then adding sugar. It has an unusual taste, and is often served to visitors who come to mourn a death and during the holiday of sacrifice, Qurban. The other national food is Khengal which is a thin dumpling, boiled, served with yogurt after topping with caramelized onions and meat.

This and that

We are presently 11 hours ahead of the Central Daylight Savings Time. On Sunday March 28 Azerbaijan will begin Summer Time. We will set our clocks up then. Today officially begins the Novruz holiday and I will not go back to the library until March 29. Because of the week long holiday, the pension deposits were made to the banks this week. Also, we must get our money now because the ATMs will run out of money this week and not be replenished until the 29^th. So, consequently daily life the past few days add a few twists.

On Thursday Linda traveled to Salyan to visit with another PCV, Leslie. I went to get my semi-annual haircut after work. The day’s weather began pleasantly, but while I was in my chosen “kishi saloun” – men’s salon, it began to rain heavily. I had to walk the near mile home in cold hard rain, but on my way I passed an ATM with about 15 women and 30 men lined up waiting for their turn. Now, when I use the term line, it is a crowd. There is really little order to it except that women are generally given a little preference. A person may get to the window, and then have the cards of family members and/or neighbors as well as their own. I have watched as a patron will withdraw from 5 different accounts.

On Friday, I went to the post office to check about packages. The post office is always busy because there is where the phone bill, gas and water utilities, mail, outgoing packages, and electricity is paid. Because of the holiday there has been a rush to mail packages to relatives all over Azerbaijan and Russia. So, every time I have been in the post office this week, there has been about 40 people. Today, there was about 50. I was most concerned about getting any packages, because the 29^th of March will be my next opportunity. We had 2 packages, but due to the mass of humanity, I told the man in charge of packages I would be back in the afternoon.

Note about packages: If some in Azerbaijan wants to mail a parcel it is best to bring the items to the post office unpacked. The preferred method is the man in charge of packages, notes what you have, provides a box and packing, then securely tapes your package with packing tape – lot’s of packing tape. Paper work is extensive, money is paid, paper work is attached, and in only 30 – 45 minutes, you have finished mailing a package. Yes, about 45 minutes per person.

Note about electricity: The old method of paying for electricity was that the meter was read and a man collected the money on the premises. Often that led to small corruption with an extra manat or 2 being added in to everyone’s bill and pocketed by the reader (yes, it was a very good job). Now, to eliminate corruption, we have a computerized meter. We purchase electric credit in advance, using a “charge card” we access our meter and our balance is shown. As the balance approaches zero, we buy more credit.

Now, that is great. Except, the concept of buying a month’s credit at one time is not readily adopted. When I buy credit – I buy one month’s amount because I do not like standing in the lines (crowds). While I am buying, people are purchasing from 1 to 7 days worth of electricity – often 5 manat at a time. That, of course, means that most people must purchase credit often. With the holiday approaching, it is a necessity to have your credit purchased. I bought my electric credit last week late in the afternoon, when lines are very short.

All that is to tell you about Friday’s pick up of our packages. As I reentered the post office in the early afternoon there were 40 people or more crowding around the 3 people taking money, processing cards, and giving receipts. I had to wait about 45 minutes for my packages to be processed because of all the paper work the package clerk had to catch up on from the morning. He had completely shut down his window and had to tell a lot of angry people that they would not be mailing anything out this late, his computer was down, and no one could pay their phone bill, all the while he is smiling at me and asking me to sit and wait. He takes exceptional care of us and was going the second mile for me now.

While waiting I watch the crowd around the electric window. The clerks are always friendly and very hard working, but the crush of the crowd was getting to everyone. I looked up and there were 6 arms stretched out through the window, all shaking their money for attention. One little woman (to indicate her age – she was not married to Moses, but I’m sure knew him) screamed to be taken next – shouting takes place, and I’m uncertain order will be maintained. Somehow, it all works. It makes the DMV in the United States look like a stroll in the park.

The Engagement Tradition

Pictures: The table is set for guests to arrive, the giving of the ring, the women's side, the men's side and the families (Girl’s father, mother, future groom, future bride, his mother and father).

The Engagement Party

Last Sunday, March 7, will be a day we will never forget. Actually it was March 6 and 7. As mentioned in last weeks blog we were asked by our neighbor Saraboni’s family if they could use our home to host the men at the engagement ceremony of Saraboni. It was a great honor for us to be asked, and my conversation clubs said it was an indication of great trust.
My apologies to any of the family if I do not have all the details correct because the process is “foreign” to us.

Saraboni and her fiancé, Samir’s families have known each other for years. His family lives in Baku and her family here in Shirvan. When a man finds a woman he would like to marry, two female members of his family approach the mother of the girl. The girl’s mother asks her daughter if she would agree to the marriage. If the girl agrees, then his parents come and meet with her parents, again the marriage is proposed and she has the option to accept or decline.* The commitment is then to be formalized at some point in the near future.

Your invitation to the formalization is now extended. It begins for us on Saturday evening March 6 at about 8:30 p.m. when Saraboni’s female members of the family knock and say they are ready to begin arranging our living room. Our table was extended, unnecessary furniture stored in our bedroom, a table is brought in from a neighbor, and the table is set with everything but food. Every dish is touched by at least 10 different people, each person moving and placing the dish in the exact place. The glass is moved a half-inch left, then a quarter inch back to the right. Plates are exchanged, forks are adjusted, and the process takes about 2 hours.

Linda retired to bed at about 10:45; whereas, I had already sought the shelter and privacy of our bedroom once the furniture was moved. Linda observed the meticulous detailing of every piece of cutlery, napkins, glasses, and dishes. We were told the festivities would begin at 1:00, but maybe noon the next day.

The girl’s door is decorated with a red ribbon and a carpet is on the landing outside the door. During the night the women prepare the food, chicken, salads, grape leaf dolma, beef and potato stew, sweets, and bread.

I went running on Sunday morning returned at 9:30 to food on the table and many people in our house preparing for the first guest to arrive. I looked at chicken, two salads, assorted sweets, I quickly cleaned up and got dressed for the day. At about 11:30 there were four brothers of the father of the bride in our apartment making small talk. We all went over to Saraboni’s home, and then we were quickly ushered back to the men’s area. The girl’s men relatives gathered and we all await the arrival of the future groom and his family.

We were sitting and chatting, then about 1:30 Linda comes in and says there is a bit of panic on the future bride’s side. Why are they so late? A call was made and they were on the way from Baku, but running late. At 2:20 horns honk and four automobiles arrive with great fanfare all decorated with red ribbons. The entourage comes up the stairs bringing gift baskets. The man’s family presents the gift baskets, then all men are in our apartment. Introductions are made, first the eldest brother of the girl’s father, then the man’s father introduced all his family and guests.

The next order of business was the drinking of tea. The formal meal is preceded by a small glass of hot tea along with various candies and sweets. After the tea was removed, the dolma was placed on the table. Once bread is brought in, then the meal begins. There is a pause while the ring and accompanying jewelry are shown, then taken to the bride’s side for presentation.

After the dolma, came the stew like dish. While eating the oldest gentleman in the room stands and gives words of praise for the families and endorses the character of the future bride. Men stand and give words of welcome and best wishes. I shared our deep honor at being included in this very special ceremony and expressed our love for Azerbaijan and its people, and culture.

Meanwhile on the bride’s side the same meal is served, the ring is accepted, women talk, and there are no formal speeches. There is dancing at one point, and with the cutting of the cake the ceremony ends.

The men’s side has concluded by this same time, and farewells are shared until the actual wedding. Now that the couple are engaged they may also meet to better get to know one another in a public or chaperoned setting.

Then came the cleanup. We concluded with returning all the furniture to its rightful owners and places by about 6:30 p.m.

*Note: The girl is given the option of refusing the proposal. Depending on the degree of traditional culture in the family what may happen if she declines. In the most conservative family that I have had contact with, the daughter who was 18 did not want to marry that young and wanted to study. Her father wanted her to marry the man in his mid-thirties, and gave instruction for her to marry. In honor of her father she then accepted. It is this latter case that gives us pause within our sense of individual choice and freedom. We indeed have cultural differences which are difficult for each of us to understand.
When we tell people our sons are not married, we are often viewed as having abandoned our family to come to Azerbaijan. The family commitment here trumps everything.

Linda's List

The first picture is of the remembrance of the Khojaly tragedy on February 26, 1992. There was a program at the library and the schools. Khojaly tragedy took place during the Armenian armies advances and occupation of the Nargono Karabakh and 7 surrounding regions. It was a war between 1991 and a cease fire in 1993. The lands are still occupied by Armenia forces and negotiations are going on to resolve the issue. During the war the village of Khojaly was captured by the Armenian forces, and civilians were passing through a corridor leaving their homes. 613 civilians were killed in an ambush as reported by several international organizations and press corps. As far as I can ascertain the Azerbaijani citizens would like the tragedy and war crimes recognized by the world community. This is important as you may know because of the Armenian pressure on the United States House of Representatives to pass a resolution concerning alleged genocide in 1915 by the Ottomans. For more information you can visit the web site www.justiceforkhojaly.org for information. I warn you the pictures and descriptions of mutilations are graphic.

The second picture is of a program at Linda's school. March 8 is International Women's Day. It is similar to our Mother's Day, but includes all women. All women are honored and presents such as flowers, perfume, and assorted gifts are given. Linda worked with her counterpart on musical parts of the program. The children sang English language songs and performed other musical numbers. The picture is of the finale.

The third photograph is of Linda's Program Manager Flora and Linda's counterpart Matanet. Each were given a beautiful rose in honor of the March 8 holiday. Flowers are always given in odd numbers because even numbers of flowers are given to remember the dead. It is an insult to give someone 2 flowers, and bad luck to be carrying 2 flowers.

The final photograph is one included in my photo project. This is a national dish, xengal. It is like a square noodle like dumpling. They are boiled and served with caramelized onions and yogart.

We are so looking forward to our return home to family and friends, we miss you all so very much. Our work here has been rewarding in many ways, but it coming to the point where when we once faced challenges, now the circumstances become frustrations. We truly love our Azerbaijani friends, co-workers, and contacts, but are as much as we love them, we miss all of you. It is ironic that when we do leave for the United States, we will begin to miss our Azerbaijani friends as we miss you.

Below are Linda's thoughts:

During the month of January, there were several complications (cold weather, sickness, days without gas) that negatively impacted my attitude. One day during my daily devotionals, I made a list of things for which I am thankful. I have kept this list handy in my Bible to keep me focused on good things.

I give thanks for:

Having a good, loving husband

Having been placed in my good school

Having good neighbors

Having a comfortable apartment

Having wonderful support from friends and family in America

Having Internet to contact family and friends

Having good food

Having a good counterpart at school

Having good Peace Corps support

Having good Peace Corps friends

I still miss home, family and friends, but I also realize that there are good things for which I am thankful.