Weekend in Baku

In Baku there are many foreign students, oil workers, and diplomats. Anything you want to find you can find it in Baku if you know where to look and are willing to pay the price. Linda and I have learned how to get around a bit in the city, and feel a little more comfortable with our travel there.
The Peace Corps Offices and staff are located in Baku, but there are no Volunteers stationed in Baku. The Azerbaijan Peace Corps Volunteer Handbook policy is that a volunteer can only go to Baku no more than once a month other than for Peace Corps business. Linda and I do not go to Baku often. Linda gets her haircut in Baku every other month, and we do anything we need to do in Baku then. It is almost always a daytrip – leaving on the bus around 6:30 a.m. and returning about 7:00 p.m.
However, on September 12 we decided to make it an overnight stay in Baku. School was to begin on September 15, and it was a good reason to do something a little special.
We made reservations at the Consul Hotel, which is Peace Corps approved and gives a discount to PCVs. It is a very nice hotel and has hot water 24 hours a day. Just to take a shower at the Consul is reason enough to go to Baku.
I also contacted Qabil. Qabil speaks excellent English, and has worked as a translator for several companies in and around Shirvan. His family lives here in Shirvan, but about 6 months ago he got a job in Baku. He moved to Baku with his wife. His wife was actually already living with her parents in Baku because she is expecting their first child. They have had five unsuccessful pregnancies, and so when the pregnancy was confirmed in Baku, she never traveled back over rough roads back to Shirvan. She is now at almost 8 months and the sonogram indicates a daughter. Qabil suggested we have supper together.
On Saturday morning we left a little later than usual, Linda got her haircut, found some new shoes so by 2:30 p.m. it was already a great trip. We enjoyed lunch, shopped for books and supplies, and went back to check in and rest until the evening with Qabil.
Now for the rest of the story:
We want to share with you the experience of being with the very brave people we have been privileged to meet and know.
Qabil brought with him Raiz. Raiz works with the Society Coalition of Azerbaijan Non-Government Organizations (NGO) and with the Society of Democratic Reform. Raiz has done post-graduate study at Columbia University in New York, has traveled to many countries and speaks 4 languages. He is married and has 2 daughters.
Raiz and Qabil met us at the hotel about 7:30 p.m. and then we went to a Turkish restaurant, we ordered and waited until 8:15 to be served. It was still during Ramazan (Ramadan) and Qabil was fasting during the daylight hours. On the table were dates and water the traditional first foods to break the day’s fasting.
We had great food, but it was certainly the company and conversation that made the evening memorable. We discussed Azerbaijan educational system, state of democratic process, charities, and ways to positively affect the lives of others. Raiz is such a brave man. He ran for Parliament in 2005. He ran one of the more “successful” losing campaigns in the country. He also spent 5 days in jail. He received the apologies of arresting officers who were following orders. He was not mistreated in the jail due to his education and stature. We so take for granted free speech, free elections, and a nation based on individual rights.
We returned to our hotel, inspired by our evening. Took our second shower of the day at the hotel, and slept well.
On Sunday we attempted to attend the 9:30 worship service at Baku International Fellowship only to find that they had discontinued the service. BIF is made up of expatriates from Canada, Great Britain, USA, Korea, Nigeria and other countries who all meet to worship in an English speaking, western-style worship service. Most of these people are here because they work for some oil company and will be stationed here for 2-3 years and then return to their country. Native Azerbaijanis do not usually attend this worship.
We had made arrangements to meet with Elshen at 12:30 so, we went back to the hotel and had lunch from McDonalds. Then at 12:30 we met Elshen and accompanied him to the Ganjlik Baptist Church (Church of Love is the official name). The service was just over 2 hours long charged with laughter, singing, tears, and sharing. The service was much like a contemporary service in the U.S. with the singing of choruses. Interspersed were a devotional given by a deacon, poetry read by members of the congregation, music by the choir, and a final sermon by one of the assistant pastors. It was such a blessing to get to worship in a Christian church even if we did not understand all the words of the songs or much of the words of the preacher (they speak so fast). Linda cried during parts of the service because of the wonderful feeling of worshiping God with other children of God. It was wonderful to see the fellowship of the members and see the joy on their faces as they sang. There were about 200 people in attendance, primarily under the age of 30 although all ages were represented. A very kind young woman interpreted for us. We were asked to say a word. Linda told them we were one of them – a Christian Brother and Sister. I shared that we loved Azerbaijan people and thanked them for allowing us to be with them. These are brave people. We could have taken pictures if arranged before hand. But, in respect to the church and to protect their privacy, we only wanted to worship with them.
Religious freedom is highly promoted by the government. But, religious groups must register with the government. There is currently a re-registration being conducted with new requirements. There are over 500 groups registered. Law prohibits gathering for religious services without registration. There are Islamic, Christian, and Jewish groups registered. 500 Islamic and 32 other groups according to the last figures I saw on www.today.az.
Many of you will remember the Baptist pastor who spent 18 months in a Northern Azerbaijani jail on the charge of possessing weapons. He was pardoned and released. In Baku there is much more acceptance than in the northern parts of Azerbaijan.
I cannot explain with words the warmth and acceptance we felt.
The Peace Corps is apolitical and areligious. We are here to help any way we can and share who we are, and who you are with the people of Azerbaijan. Our other task is to share with you who the Azerbaijan people are. A group of people who want to remain true to their culture, ethnic identity, and move towards the future in cooperation with other nations and peoples.