First the pictures: They are from Zaqatala in the northern part of Azerbaijan. During the holiday of Novruz the villages surrounding Zaqatala come to the park for a huge celebration. Every villiage brings displays and provides music. There are several styles of dancing. The population in and surrounding Zaqatala is quite diverse. The young men who are standing on the shoulders of other young men were scared to death. I wish the camera could have captured the looks on the faces. The hikers are Todd Wheeler - retired book representative and a Community Economic Development Volunteer, Josh Todd-Neese - a Teaching English as a Foreign Language Volunteer, Joel Robbins - a retired English teacher and a TEFL in Sheki, Bill Colcord - retired businessman CED in Barda, and Denney. Denney and Todd crossing the stream with fear and trepidation because the bridge is not as wide and sturdy as it looks.
This week Linda attended her first Azerbaijan Wedding. I was recently invited by one of the teachers at my school to her daughter’s wedding celebration. “Toy” is the word for the wedding celebration. I went with about 20 other teachers. All the guests had on their nicest clothes. The women were wearing their best jewelry, heels, hose, dresses with velvet, silk, satin, rhinestones, and sequins. (I was truly a “plain Jane”. One of my counterpart teachers had told me to wear my best clothes, make-up and “don’t carry your big school bag”. The celebration started at 6:00; we left about 8:30 but it would continue until midnight. The toy was held at a “Saray” (wedding hall). There were about 600 guests. The men sat on one side of the hall and were served alcohol. The woman and children sat on the other side and were served water and juices. Several courses of food were served during the two hours we were there - many salads, five kinds of meat, fruits, vegetables, breads and nuts. There was a band of five musicians with a singer that played throughout the time. The men danced together and the women danced together. No one touches. The college students had more hip movement and general body movement than most guests. The young and old danced.
The bride and groom entered before any one starting eating. They were escorted with torches and at one point some fireworks went off. They walked through the hall and up the platform to their table with two big throne chairs. There they sat for the entire evening watching the activities. They did not smile, but were quite solemn for the whole evening. Various people would go up and have pictures made with the bride and groom. Later in the evening, the photographers would come around selling the photos. Two cameramen were filming during the celebration. You could watch the wall-mounted TV monitors from your table and see the activities and people around the hall. Finally the bride and groom came down from the platform and walked down the dance floor and back again. People danced and clapped on either side of the corridor they formed. When we left, we stopped at the cashier’s table and paid our 20 manat ($20). This money is used to help pay for the toy. Everyone attending the toy pays and close friends will pay more. The only surprise - I was asked to say a little speech during part of the evening. One of the teachers translated for me to be sure I said the right things. The school director (principal) also spoke. On the way home, I was told that a toy could cost the family a year’s salary. A wedding is very important in Azerbaijan. Islam does not recognize divorce. A woman will have one wedding celebration in her life and this may be the only time she is the center of attention.
In my being at the Central Library I get to meet many people. A couple of weeks ago I met Cosif (pronounced Joseph). He had read my resume in the Director’s file, and wanted to renew his English skills. Cosif works six days a week in alternating shifts, 2 days – days, 2 days – evenings, 2 days – nights. He is married and has a daughter.Cosif was a writer and says he had some items published during the Soviet era. He met his wife and wanted to her, but her family forbade it. He traveled and worked in Russia, and every time he returned to Shirvan he expected her to be married. Finally at age 39, he and his wife ran off together and were married. Her family did not speak to them until her father died, and then the family forgave them.It always adds to my day when I have an opportunity to speak with Cosif. I tell him his story should be written and published. He tells me in hard economic times no ones needs stories, they need jobs.
In my being at the Central Library I get to meet many people. A couple of weeks ago I met Cosif (pronounced Joseph). He had read my resume in the Director’s file, and wanted to renew his English skills. Cosif works six days a week in alternating shifts, 2 days – days, 2 days – evenings, 2 days – nights. He is married and has a daughter.Cosif was a writer and says he had some items published during the Soviet era. He met his wife and wanted to her, but her family forbade it. He traveled and worked in Russia, and every time he returned to Shirvan he expected her to be married. Finally at age 39, he and his wife ran off together and were married. Her family did not speak to them until her father died, and then the family forgave them.It always adds to my day when I have an opportunity to speak with Cosif. I tell him his story should be written and published. He tells me in hard economic times no ones needs stories, they need jobs.
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