International Museum Day

So, how did you spend May 16, 2009, International Museum Day? Linda, Lela, and I went to the Shirvan History Museum at the invitation of the Director of the Museum. Linda and I have been to the Museum many times with Conversation Clubs and on our own. Lela is a member of one of my Conversation Clubs, and was asked to come with us to interpret.
The pictures are of the children dancing the Yalli. From the wedding pictures you may remember that the Yalli is done holding hands, and the final person holds a handkerchief. The dance is one of unity. There are 3 of the national musical instruments, the galval (tambourine looking drum), the tar (similar to the guitar), and one I can never remember the name. There is a picture of the staff of the Museum with the Director of the Music School, the Museum Director and us.
The celebration consists of information and historical readings, children performing cultural dances, national music, and speeches. Linda and I both were asked to speak. Linda emphasized the reasons we joined the Peace Corps. I emphasized the goals of the Peace Corps and concluded that people ask where we are from. Everyone wants to know if we are Russian or American. I told the audience, “I always want to answer I am from Shirvan because this is my home.”
Shirvan is a relatively new city built during the Soviet Union. Its original name, Ali Bayrami, was the name of the man who brought Communism to Azerbaijan. The city is not historical like Baku, Shamakhi, Sheki, or Ganja. The museum has 3 rooms. The first highlights the power plant and resources here in Shirvan. The second room contains archeological finds of pottery, tools, and clothing. The final room has tools, money, and traditional clothing. After the 3 rooms of the museum is a room dedicated to the former president Heydar Alyiev.
We feel it is always important to attend any public celebration that we can. It helps integrate us into the community. The more people know who we are, the better.

SCHOOL IS OUT Linda’s school ended today with the Last Bell celebration. The Last Bell honors the graduating students and those who just completed the first grade. We will have more information in a later blog with pictures.

So, now that school is finished Linda will be combining here 2 student conversation clubs into one. She will also be conducting conversation clubs for adults at our apartment in the evenings for 10 sessions. One other plan of Linda’s is to conduct activities for the children in our apartment buildings. There are 5 buildings that share a courtyard park where children gather and play every day.

I will continue to work at conversation clubs and have been discussing various possible projects with people here. We hope to take some time and travel to Quba, Azerbaijan, and then to Tiblisi, Georgia. The trips will be with fellow older volunteers. We get to accumulate 2 vacation days for each month of service. So, we hope to have greater information and pictures in the future.

One last bit of disconnected information. When we complete our Peace Corps service in Azerbaijan, I will I have accomplished at least one significant thing. For background, during my conversation clubs we often talk about music. There are times when I take our IPOD and play music for the club. We discuss the meaning of the songs, listen for words, and try to show how listening to music can help their English skills.Second, one of my good friends is named Ibo (short for Ibriham). He walks with me and helps me with language, and I speak English with him. The other day Ibo had me call his cell phone, and I could hear the ring tone – Peter, Paul, and Mary’s Blowin in the Wind. Ibo has memorized the first stanza and chorus. He knows the meaning as well as the tune. Drop by drop we make a lake.

Kitchen and Bathroom

This blog posting is a bit of this and that. First, the pictures are of our apartment before and after of the toilet and stove area. Can you guess which is which? Linda has done a wonderful job of decorating in a light blue, primarily because her choices of the plastic tubs and materials were red, brown, and blue. One of our good friends had picked red, and we wanted to be more unique.
The curtains are all held in place by Velcro. The refrigerator door seal is very bad and splitting, so we have a Velcro latching system. (Note: thanks to all of you who sent Velcro. That is very handy, and we have some left over for future projects.) The refrigerator is on our balcony not in the kitchen. That location is very popular here. But, to answer your question, no there is no electric outlet on the balcony, so the cord runs through a window into the living room and into an outlet. The fridge is small, but we do have ice thanks to ice trays from the U.S. When Linda comes in from a hard day and has a mug full of ice tea (mug which holds 10 ounces, the glasses hold about 4 and are made for hot tea), she feels on top of the world. I would wager she might be the only person with a mug of iced tea in all of Azerbaijan. The fridge is also self-defrosting. That is, when the electricity is out for 6-8 hours, it defrosts.
The toilet pictures are my favorite, of course. My thanks to everyone who volunteered to mail us a seat. I may still request one through the mail. The issue here is not availability, but is quality. Many of the fixtures are cheaply made plastic which break easily. In many homes, schools and public buildings are fixtures that began with cheap plastic components, then the plastic breaks, and the components are never repaired or replaced. However, obviously quality products would be unaffordable. So instead of doing without, there is broken and non-repaired. I have already used Super Glue on the toilet seat and about every other repair we’ve done.
We will show pictures of the bedroom with our mosquito net and walk-in closet – you walk in the bedroom and you’re in our closet, in a future blog.
Now, here are some experiences that have touched our hearts recently. In the Post Office are several windows along a long counter then across the long narrow room is a table and bench for writing. I had purchased an envelope and stamp for the U.S. to the One Laptop Per Child organization. I was mailing a letter from my counterpart, who wanted to share how much the program was needed in her country, and included a letter from myself. As I approached the table I noted a man standing and reading an official looking letter lying on the table and he stood by reading it. While I was writing the addresses on the envelope, a cell phone began to ring. It was the generic ring so I checked and it was not my phone. The ring was coming from the man standing across the table. He motioned with his head towards his right hand pants pocket. It was then I became aware that his arms were prostheses. I reached into his pocket (not something I would ordinarily do), pressed the answer button on his phone, and held it to his ear until he held the phone in place with his shoulder. He completed his call, I took the phone, concluded the call and replaced in his pocket. A nod of the head from each of us, and we went our separate ways.
Holidays are a main topic in the educational system. Linda went from class to class explaining Memorial Day and Mother’s Day. Students made Linda Mother’s Day cards and gave her presents such as an angel figurine, flowers, and a set of canisters for the kitchen.
For our anniversary four of the ladies from the Library bought Linda a pearl rhinestone silver necklace for about 20 AZN, and signed a card. This was from people who don’t make more that 200 AZN a month. People are always extending signs of appreciation and friendship.
We were invited to an International Museum Day celebration at the History Museum on May 16. One young woman from a Conversation Club served as our interpreter. We were asked to speak just a few minutes each. Everyone was so appreciative of the United States caring about Azerbaijan. Words fail me; I can’t express in this blog the feelings we have. We feel frustrated that we cannot do more, and then feel fulfilled at every little expression of friendship and acknowledgement of appreciation for the Peace Corps.

Wedding Pictures

This is the second blog about weddings – “Toy”, and will no doubt be the last. The first wedding blog was Linda’s comments on the one she attended without me. This wedding we both attended. It was for the daughter of one of the men who works at the Central Library, so it was all my coworkers in attendance.
Linda’s wedding was a combined wedding – that is just one for both the bride and groom. This wedding was the first of two such events for the same couple. The Bride’s wedding is given by the family of the bride, and the bride may choose any color she desires for her dress. At the Groom’s wedding, the bride wears the traditional white. Most brides rent their dresses for the day, and the men wear their best suits, maybe even a new suit. Customs change with times and economic conditions, so many more couples are going with a combined wedding rather than the traditional two.
Another interesting custom is that the wedding can cost up to a year’s salary, so everyone contributes to the cost of the wedding. The closer the relationship to the bride and groom’s family, the higher the contribution. There is a cashier by the entrance, and a person can pay anytime during the event. If you are friends – 20 AZN, good friends 30 AZN, close friends 50 AZN, extremely close family, 100 AZN. The average cost of the wedding is about 25 AZN per person, and at this wedding there were about 350 people. A teacher makes 250 AZN per month.
The wedding is eating and dancing and lasts about 4 hours. The men sit on one side, the women at the other. There is alcohol for the men, and none for the women. Really rather boring if you do not speak Azerbaijani well. The highlight for Linda and me was that men and women started dancing together the last 30 minutes or so. Linda and I did a little slow dance, and one swing number. – The first time we’ve danced together since being in Azerbaijan – It was fun.
In the first wedding, Linda did not have our camera, but I took about 40 pictures at the second. Many people would ask me to take their picture even though I didn’t know them, and they would never get a copy.
I used my pictures in my Conversation Clubs (CC) to ask questions about the culture and to get the participants to describe the events in English. I finished by having the CC choose which 5 pictures I would post on the blog. So, the pictures above are of the bride and groom dancing, Linda and I with 2 guests, the bride and groom table, cutting the cake, and the final dance “Yalli” which is done holding hands and moving in a circle to symbolize unity. A picture that one CC included and the others did not was when the Plov (rice) was brought to the couple’s table it is carried by a man in traditional costume and escorted by torch bearers – I thought was an interesting picture also, but the most votes win – the blog pictures were an illustration of democracy in action.
So, my first question to my Conversation Clubs was when is the couple actually a husband and wife. If, God forbid, the bride or groom died between the 2 weddings are they married? The answer is no. There is a legal contract, much like our wedding license and registering the license which when it is signed, they are married. The signing is a big ceremony and often done at the groom’s wedding.
In Azerbaijan a woman cannot legally marry before the age of 18, but in the more conservative villages and cities where the culture is still father dominated, a marriage may be arranged for a daughter as young as 13. When that happens, there are no contracts signed, and the woman may never have legal rites if the husband ever mistreats or divorces her. Basically the laws are in place, but still parts of the country still are guided by a more ancient tradition. I used the opportunity to speak about women’s rights and how important the contract was.
Many of the marriages are still arranged. A boy’s family will ask the girl’s family about marriage and make the commitment. The boy then presents a ring to the girl in a ceremony, and the wedding is some time in the future. So my question was, what if they don’t like each other? Usually the bride and groom know and approve of the wedding. However, the social opportunities are very limited for a man and woman to date or get to know each other. Therefore, many people only socialize with their family members and a marriage between cousins and relatives is quite common.
Azerbaijanis will say to us they do not have divorce. We note many unhappy marriages or marriages just for the sake of having children.
If you have any question concerning marriage traditions or customs, please leave a comment.

Lastly, we have been here 8 months now, and Azerbaijani friends will ask us if we miss the United States. We always respond that we miss our family and friends. We do get homesick. Recently Linda was working with classes on the national anthem of Azerbaijan. Every student could sing the national anthem, every verse, every word with pride and vigor. Then they asked about the US national anthem. Linda sang the Star Spangled Banner and became very emotional. She tried to explain how much we love our country and family, but words were inadequate. Note: the students have learned the Star Spangled Banner also.
I find myself getting homesick when I read. I will be reading a mystery for entertainment, and there will be a scene in a restaurant or social setting. Sometimes those scenes make me long to be back in the good ol’ U.S.A.

Writing Olympics 2009

There are pictures of the Azerbaijan Writing Olympics in Shirvan. This from the informational mailout:

Highlights

Started in Georgia in 2003 by a PCV to give students the opportunity to express themselves creatively in English
Azerbaijan joined the contest in 2005. 600 Azerbaijani students participated in the 2008 contest
A pilot program for undergraduate students was added in 2007, with 81 Azerbaijani students participating
This year, the competition is national, not Trans-Caucasus. Next year, hopefully, it will once again return to normal

Students are given one hour to write in English on a given topic. These topics are not given in advance and students may not use dictionaries or other resources. Creativity and originality are the primary judging criteria and students are not penalized for grammar or spelling mistakes unless they prevent judges from understanding the essay. There will be regional and national winners. The first place winners will be printed in a small book.

Linda, Denney, and Jessie promoted the Writing Olympics through their Conversation Clubs and Linda’s school. We had 12 participants. Linda and her counterpart conducted the session at the Central Library in Shirvan. Linda and Denney will take the essays to Baku sometime in the near future. The essays from all over Azerbaijan will be compiled and judged. Awards will be given in September at the beginning of the school year.

Linda served on the committee for this year’s competition. The reason for national rather than international competition was the invasion of Georgia by Russian troops last year. When the invasion took place all volunteers were evacuated. The staff stayed intact, and hopefully new trainees will return this June. Without Georgia, the volunteers of Armenia and Azerbaijan thought it best not to compete head to head. Armenia and Azerbaijan are still technically at war, and emotions run very deep.

The participants are given three topics from which to choose. Different topics are assigned for the different grade levels. An example of the topics are:
6th
Would you rather be a dog or a cat? Why?
If I had three wishes, I would wish for…

7th
If you were a superhero, what would your superpower be?
How would your life be different if you were born a boy rather than a girl, or a girl rather than a boy?

8th
What event has made you the most happy?
A good friend is someone who…

9th
What if there was no music?
Who is the person you most admire?

10th
What would happen if women governed the world?
My favorite Azerbaijani tradition is…

11th
What makes a teacher great?
School would be better if…

1st year
Who or what makes you laugh?
What are three things you want to do before you die?

2nd year
What is your favorite book? Describe it.
Write about why you are proud of your country.

3rd year
Who do you think has been the greatest person in history?
Is it better to have a large family or a small family?

4th year
Why do you think people are prejudice?
If you could speak to U.S. President Barack Obama, what would you say?

The other picture is of Denney painting the Library trees. What in the world? Shirvan has many parks and public areas. During the week there are street sweepers and others who work in these public areas. But, we noticed that on Saturdays there seem to be many more people and much younger people working on cleaning parts of the city. Through Conversation Clubs and Library staff we found out that people from different companies and organizations do the cleaning on Saturday.
So, 2 weeks ago Denney showed up and helped the Library’s Saturday staff sweep the area around the library. A great experience. The next week, Denney showed up to do the same, but was asked to go home by the man who directs the cleanup. The Director explained to Denney this week that he did not want Denney sweeping with the women because he was a guest.
I explained to the Director that Linda and I felt that Shirvan is our home. We do not want to be guests, but part of the Shirvan family. If anyone in Shirvan cleans, we want to clean.
Now to explain the painting of the trees, in Shirvan all the public trees are painted for about a meter from the roots. The paint is a whitewash right out of Tom Sawyer. I had seen other people painting the trees. So, I asked the Director instead of sweeping could I paint the trees. Note the man looking on is the foreman of the cleanup crew. The ladies are the cleanup crew, and they all enjoyed seeing Denney paint about 15 trees.

There is a picture of 2 volunteers, from left to right, Jon and Jordyn. They are both TEFL with Jon in Bilasuvar and Jordyn is in Neftjala. They dropped in as they were on their way to a committee meeting in Ujar.

Finally, there is a picture of 4 boys in a Conversation Club playing Concentration. The object is to match Azerbaijan and English words. If they match then the English word is exposed. The team with the most word coverings is the winner.

Linda's First Wedding and Zaqatala

First the pictures: They are from Zaqatala in the northern part of Azerbaijan. During the holiday of Novruz the villages surrounding Zaqatala come to the park for a huge celebration. Every villiage brings displays and provides music. There are several styles of dancing. The population in and surrounding Zaqatala is quite diverse. The young men who are standing on the shoulders of other young men were scared to death. I wish the camera could have captured the looks on the faces. The hikers are Todd Wheeler - retired book representative and a Community Economic Development Volunteer, Josh Todd-Neese - a Teaching English as a Foreign Language Volunteer, Joel Robbins - a retired English teacher and a TEFL in Sheki, Bill Colcord - retired businessman CED in Barda, and Denney. Denney and Todd crossing the stream with fear and trepidation because the bridge is not as wide and sturdy as it looks.

This week Linda attended her first Azerbaijan Wedding. I was recently invited by one of the teachers at my school to her daughter’s wedding celebration. “Toy” is the word for the wedding celebration. I went with about 20 other teachers. All the guests had on their nicest clothes. The women were wearing their best jewelry, heels, hose, dresses with velvet, silk, satin, rhinestones, and sequins. (I was truly a “plain Jane”. One of my counterpart teachers had told me to wear my best clothes, make-up and “don’t carry your big school bag”. The celebration started at 6:00; we left about 8:30 but it would continue until midnight. The toy was held at a “Saray” (wedding hall). There were about 600 guests. The men sat on one side of the hall and were served alcohol. The woman and children sat on the other side and were served water and juices. Several courses of food were served during the two hours we were there - many salads, five kinds of meat, fruits, vegetables, breads and nuts. There was a band of five musicians with a singer that played throughout the time. The men danced together and the women danced together. No one touches. The college students had more hip movement and general body movement than most guests. The young and old danced.

The bride and groom entered before any one starting eating. They were escorted with torches and at one point some fireworks went off. They walked through the hall and up the platform to their table with two big throne chairs. There they sat for the entire evening watching the activities. They did not smile, but were quite solemn for the whole evening. Various people would go up and have pictures made with the bride and groom. Later in the evening, the photographers would come around selling the photos. Two cameramen were filming during the celebration. You could watch the wall-mounted TV monitors from your table and see the activities and people around the hall. Finally the bride and groom came down from the platform and walked down the dance floor and back again. People danced and clapped on either side of the corridor they formed. When we left, we stopped at the cashier’s table and paid our 20 manat ($20). This money is used to help pay for the toy. Everyone attending the toy pays and close friends will pay more. The only surprise - I was asked to say a little speech during part of the evening. One of the teachers translated for me to be sure I said the right things. The school director (principal) also spoke. On the way home, I was told that a toy could cost the family a year’s salary. A wedding is very important in Azerbaijan. Islam does not recognize divorce. A woman will have one wedding celebration in her life and this may be the only time she is the center of attention.
In my being at the Central Library I get to meet many people. A couple of weeks ago I met Cosif (pronounced Joseph). He had read my resume in the Director’s file, and wanted to renew his English skills. Cosif works six days a week in alternating shifts, 2 days – days, 2 days – evenings, 2 days – nights. He is married and has a daughter.Cosif was a writer and says he had some items published during the Soviet era. He met his wife and wanted to her, but her family forbade it. He traveled and worked in Russia, and every time he returned to Shirvan he expected her to be married. Finally at age 39, he and his wife ran off together and were married. Her family did not speak to them until her father died, and then the family forgave them.It always adds to my day when I have an opportunity to speak with Cosif. I tell him his story should be written and published. He tells me in hard economic times no ones needs stories, they need jobs.

Cooking and Cleaning

Some of the things which readers have asked for are pictures of scenery, daily life, Azerbaijan people, and our work. This blog is about our daily life in our apartment. First, we are thankful for all your positive thoughts and prayers on our behalf which kept our spirits encouraged and helped in getting our apartment.
THE PICTURES: The French Press container on the window sill contains water fresh out of the tap. Needless to say water treatment is part of the blog. Linda is looking over her first load of laundry in the apartment. We are enjoying our first meal in our new home. The meal was typical American, Spaghetti, salad, cold tea and juice. When we looked outside our kitchen window on the overhang above the first floor apartment, we saw several pigeons and sparrows eating pieces of bread. I tried to get a picture of the pigeons, but they flew off when I moved the curtain to take the picture. NOTE: to our dear friend Nancy Erlich, I did speak to the pigeons and they are distant relatives of Walter from NY.
DAILY LIFE: It is amazing to me how quickly Linda has made the apartment become our home. The decorations and personal touches make it such an enjoyable environment. What 2 weeks ago was a crisis is now one of the high points of our experience so far in Azerbaijan.
The biggest challenge for us is the uncertainty of running water. We have water every other day, and today, Saturday, April 18, 2009 is a water day. We began having water a little after 7:00 a.m., and we will have the supply interrupted sometime during the day. One water day Linda was showering and the water just stopped, then resumed about 7 hours later at 9:00 p.m. We try to shower every water day, whenever the water is flowing, we try to get the task accomplished as soon as possible. Often the water stops in the morning and resumes in the early afternoon. We store water in containers for flushing and necessary washing for non-water days.
From the picture above you can see that the water is not purified out of the tap. We boil all our drinking and cooking water, then filter through a PC provided water filter. We store boiled and filtered water in plastic bottles, and refill those every water day. The boiling, filling, and storing water is a continuous process all day on water days. It is a satisfying feeling to get everything full, but then by the next afternoon we realize we will repeat the process every water day.
The water comes from the river Kur and a reservoir.
We never realized how quickly we could prepare a meal in our home in KC, but here every meal requires at least an hour of preparation and usually 2. Our first meal prepared in our home took about 2 hours. The salad is spinach, carrots, and tomatoes. The spinach replaces all our lettuce. Our Azerbaijan counterparts cannot understand eating raw spinach, but we do clean thoroughly. We have the luxury of Ranch Dressing due to packets send from the U.S. The best part of our meal was that we had cold drinks again. The Azerbaijani people believe that cold drinks are hard on the digestion and will give stomach aches. I can’t tell you what it means to have control of a refrigerator. The fridge is small and does not seal well. In the future I will include a picture.
Instant oatmeal is a great breakfast and eggs are plentiful and reasonable. The bread is not sliced and comes in round loaves of about a third of pound. We buy brown bread also, which is thickly sliced and a bit more expensive – 30 cents for about a half-pound loaf. There are no preservatives so you only buy what you can eat in a day or two.
An interesting sidelight to the common loaves of bread which are 20 cents a loaf is that they are not wrapped. They are usually hand boxed in boxes of 25 – 50 and put in the trunks of cars, uncovered, taken to markets, then left in the box or hand transferred to another smaller box, hand selected and put in a plastic sack. They are quite tasty if hot, but do not make good toast. Lots of hand transferring is the key phrase. Our idea of sanitary handling of food has had to be altered.
(For Easter we did have a canned home from the U.S., deviled eggs and mashed potatoes – a true feast.)
Most stoves are gas here. We have rarely seen any stove where more than 2 burners can be used at once. The gas pressure is so inconsistent and is inadequate for operating the gas ovens. So, most stoves that have an oven, the oven is used for storage, and a small electric oven is purchased. The electric ovens are much like large toaster ovens in the U.S. Some have thermostats, some are either off or on more like a toaster oven. Women who bake their own bread do so one loaf at a time, and cook several loaves during one session with the oven.
The laundering process is difficult work and born primarily by Linda. We do have an electric water heater, so on water days, Linda always does some laundry. From the water picture above you can see Linda works very hard scrubbing with brushes and hand washing. Solar clothes dryers are everywhere as long as the weather cooperates, that is the easiest aspect of laundry. Linda washes the clothes in a small plastic tub which she places inside our bathtub. She leans over the tub and does the washing. It is very hard on her knees and back. The Azerbaijan women work many hours on housework that would take far less time and effort in the U.S. There are washing machines in the homes of the upper middle class and above here. They are very expensive, and the capacity is very small. One of Linda’s counterparts has one of the nicest washing machines we’ve seen, and it’s capacity was about 1/3 that of an average washing machine in the U.S.
We have rugs and a decent broom. We also purchase for 1 manat a plastic tool much like a Hoagie Carpet Sweeper, but without the handle. It is about the size of a dustpan, and helps with the little things that fall on the rugs. The rugs are very old, but will give us warmth in the winter.
Dust is ever pervasive, and no matter how hard we try, it seems impossible to keep up with dusting.
Finally, we have not had any problem with flies or mosquitoes, YET. But, everyone tells us they are coming with the warm weather. We have seen the fly swatters going on sale in the Bazaar, so it must be getting close. The PC provides a mosquito net. Insect repellent is available, but if anyone has the Avon product "Hands So Soft". We know that is a great mosquito repellent as well as having a pleasant aroma. We are fighting a small battle with ants, but winning so far.
In Azerbaijan shoes are not worn inside the home. Dust is so bad that everyone has about 2 pairs of slippers or shoes. One pair is for work and on the street, one is a pair of slippers you wear only inside the home. There can also be a pair of sandals to be worn in the courtyards of homes and to the toilet if it is outdoors. If slippers are not provided inside the home, then just socks. No one wears the street shoes inside the home.
Actually life here is much like rural America in the early part of the 20th century. Many farm households worked just as hard at the everyday necessities as the people here.
If you have any questions or comments, please leave them in the comments of the blog or email them to us. We leave out so many details of life here.

PICTURES FROM SHEKI – The older man and wife aboard a bus is another example of interesting people wherever. On the gentleman’s lapel is his WWII medal. This man, like many of the Greatest Generation in the U.S., was a war hero. He and his wife are still very proud of service to his country and the world. A few of the mountains in the background of a horse grazing is a postcard portrait. The view from the Panorama Hotel in Sheki was breathtaking. An Albanian Church without its cross or any sign it was once a church is one of two in Sheki. And, finally, our good friend Dorothy left her camera and her blue bag in a taxi. We went back to the area where we caught the taxi and asked around. The drivers started calling around all the drivers they knew until they found the bag and returned it Dorothy in 15 minutes. We have discovered many wonderful and friendly people.
Let us share a most unusual week with each of you. On Tuesday Linda returned from school and was preparing supper in the kitchen. The window of the kitchen looks out over the courtyard of 5 apartment buildings. To her right was an army green truck with canvas over the load area, and there were about 40 people gathered around. There was wailing and a wrapped body on the ground. People moved the body to the truck, but the truck did not move. Within a half-hour the body was removed and placed under a half-tubular red carpet like structure.
It was about that time Denney returned and entered the courtyard and noticed the activity. Not knowing what had happened, but noticed the military like truck. He walked very slowly and then several men raised the red carpet structure above their heads and a processional left the courtyard. There was wailing and the pounding of the chest by about 50 people. Twenty minutes or so the women returned to the apartment building. Women do not go to the burial site, and the body is buried the same day as the person dies.
We learned that a woman in her 40’s with 2 grown children had died of complications from Diabetes. The next morning there was a fence of blue tarps outside the apartment building of the deceased. Many people came and visited the home. Around the corner was a blue tarp tent where rituals were held every hour. On Friday everyone who visited the family was fed a meal. The meal was prepared in the garden area of the apartment below us. Fires heated 25 gallon kettles of stew. There was a table with 50 bowls on a makeshift table. Death is a community experience which lasts 7 days, with the fourth day being significant. Mourning is intensified on the fortieth day after the death and at the one year anniversary.
We were moved by the mourning process, and it was difficult as an observer we wanted to document and take pictures to describe, but of course wanted to respectfully honor those who were mourning. Second, if the woman would have been in the U.S. or had resources she could have controlled here diabetes better.
A second event happened on Friday at the Central Library where Denney works. Denney actually assists in the IATP (Internet Access and Teaching Program) center in the library. It is funded by USAID. The country director and the regional director came to inspect and interview participants of the center. Since Wednesday everyone had been cleaning and sprucing up the center. Alma, Denney’s counterpart, had been collecting money to help buy a new vacuum cleaner for the room. It was a clean as it has been since he came.
The Regional Director spoke Russian and English while the country director spoke Azerbaijani. The room was packed with people from the library and my conversation clubs. After the meeting I was able to spend time with both the Regional Director and Country Director.
The Regional Director was a young woman from Kyrgyzstan. Her husband is a translator for financial institutions. She has a modern marriage where her husband and she share the responsibilities at home and with their 8 year old daughter. She comes from a country where there are still kidnap marriages. The marriages are illegal, but continue.

As we talked she shared that when she was in the 10th grade she was an average student. A Peace Corps Volunteer came and she participated in the programs. She thought at the time it was primarily entertainment with games and other activities. She related on reflection that the PCV had changed her life. The volunteer had opened up to her a whole world beyond her culture and country. She is a most amazing person who now studies Interior Design over the internet as a hobby and is looking into a course through George Washington University online. I cannot tell you how inspired I was by this brave, intelligent, insightful, and compassionate woman.

The Peace Corps does make a difference, one by one. There is a saying in Azerbaijan, drop by drop a lake is made.

One of the activities in a conversation club is taking picutres of the community. The Regional Director encouraged us to publish them on their web site and invite other IATP centers in other cities and countries to do so. We might even try to get a US school to participate also. Opening up the world to young people is what we are about.

Please leave your comments, we read them all. In the previous blog there was a request for our mailing address and I posted it in the comment section of that blog posting.